What's for breakfast? How about some caviar. Sure, that's what we ate for breakfast as kids. NOT! I had a spoonful of some terrific leftover caviar produced in Uruguay by the Black River Caviar company. With the decimation of the wild sturgeon stock, farmed caviar is the best source for caviar. I was reminded of a dish we cooked at the shuttered L'Orangerie restaurant in my L.A. days. That was scrambled eggs served in their shell with chives and caviar. There is another more elaborate version that was prepared for the Czars of Russia. An egg is emptied through a small hole in its shell. After cleaning with water, it is filled with melted-clarified butter and allowed to harden in the cooler. After peeling, the egg-shaped butter is dipped in flour, beaten egg and fine breadcrumbs. Then, breaded once again after cooling in the fridge. Next step is to deep fry the coated "butter egg" until crisp. While it is still hot, the narrow end of the egg has a section removed and the butter poured out. Then, this delicate egg-shaped bread shell is filled with creamy scrambles eggs topped with caviar and a sprinkling of chives.
Here is an introductory note from the director of the caviar farm, "Welcome to the world of caviar. Welcome to Black River Caviar. The Alcalde family’s focus on sustainability and preservation of sturgeon species is what has attracted me most since the beginning. Caviar is a very special food, and while the quality of the product is the subsequent factor for me after sustainability, I have been overwhelmingly impressed; it’s unquestionably second to none. The Alcalde’s are true pioneers of the industry as they were the first to aquaculture sturgeon in the southern hemisphere and consistently generate a masterful product all while constantly striving to make each harvest better by using the latest innovative technology and seeking to improve every aspect of cultivation. The Black River brand is something I’m extremely proud to be a part of.
Graham C. Gaspard
He has every reason to be proud as this is a first class oscietra caviar. "This variety of caviar is made from acipenser gueldenstaedtii sturgeon roe, of Russian origin. With a diameter between 3.0 and 3.2 mm, their color ranges from light brown to golden. Their texture is firm with a unique glazed shine, and their intense creamy taste with a touch of nuts nicely remains in the whole palate."
Oh yes, my breakfast. I cooked simple four minute coddled eggs and slathered them with the oscietra caviar and a little d'Angelo bread country loaf on the side. Next time, the Czar's Eggs.
Chef Michael Hutchings