My dear friend, Chef James Sly, owns a restaurant in Carpinteria called Sly's. Chef Sly prepares a regional prix fixe menu based on the old French classics. There have been menus from Alsace-Lorraine, Jura, Paris and Provence. Each region has a specialty based on the indigenous foods and traditions.
Coming up next is a menu that brings back some of my classics that were regulars on the menu from my restaurant, Michael's Waterside (1984-1993). While most are my originals, they have the DNA of French cuisine that I cut my teeth on during my training days in France and Great Britain.
Menu Notes and a Mini History of the Michael’s Waterside Dishes
The Soufflé Suissesse was originally an Escoffier dish from the 1800's that Chef Albert Roux interpreted and modernized. It was and still is a regular feature on the 3-star MichelinLe Gavroche restaurant menu in London, where Chef Michael Hutchings was the Sous Chef. The dish is a twice baked pillow of airy bechamel floating on a pool of cream with Gruyere cheese melted into the soufflé.
The Abalone “Comme Chez Nous” - that’s french for “our way - had its origins during Michael's stint as chef of the now-shuttered Olive Mill Bistro. Michael was one of the earliest chefs to use cultured abalone on a menu. The abalone are egg battered, sauteed then sauced with a luscious butter reduction sauce with enoki daki mushrooms, dill and fresh tomato.
The Tagliatelle Huganin is made from spinach egg noodles tossed in a cream pesto sauce with sun-dried tomatoes, prosciutto and parmesan. One of our dearest clients, the Huganins, ordered this so often that I put his name on the dish.
The Salade of Fennel and Oranges t is simply my take on a Frenchified Waldorf Salad. I use apples, Belgian endive, walnut oil vinaigrette, Roquefort and toasted walnuts. This recipe was featured in Gourmet magazine's recipe collection.
Main Courses
The Fillet de Saumon Persillade was my take on the Rack of Lamb Persillade. The salmon is topped with a parslied breadcrumb topping and baked. The sauce is a salmon flavored demi-glace with fresh basil and tomato.
Tournedos Vigneron is a take on a French classic the sauced a sautéed filet of beef with demi glace. The sauce is finished with grapes, escargot and mushroom, preferable morels. At times I used fresh escargot from the lemon orchards in Ojai.
Canard Juliette is a Roux classic. In their version, the duck is served in two stages. First the breast is served on the light side of medium with a julienne of leeks and carrots with an orange scented duck jus. In Roux's version the legs were served as a second course, cooked crispy, and garnished with a salad of curly endive. Michael's version uses only the duck breast.
Desserts
Roulé Marquise is a classic from Le Gavroche. I recall Chef Albert Roux telling me that this is, executed well, will make me famous in America. I still cook it to this day and have several variations. The original is a classic flourless chocolate sponge cake that is filled with fresh berries and little coffee liquor candies, whipped cream and rolled like a Swiss roll. Raspberry sauce completes the desert.
The Tart Tatin minute is purely French. The dish was invented be the Tatin sisters. Wikipedia note,
"Tradition says that the Tarte Tatin was first created by accident at the Hotel Tatin in Lamotte-Beuvron, France in 1898. The hotel was run by two sisters, Stéphanie and Caroline Tatin. There are conflicting stories concerning the tart's origin, but the predominant one is that Stéphanie Tatin, who did most of the cooking, was overworked one day. She started to make a traditional apple pie but left the apples cooking in butter and sugar for too long. Smelling the burning, she tried to rescue the dish by putting the pastry base on top of the pan of apples, quickly finishing the cooking by putting the whole pan in the oven. After turning out the upside down tart, she was surprised to find how much the hotel guests appreciated the dessert.
An alternative version of the tart's origin is offered on the Brotherhood of the Tarte Tatin website, according to which Stéphanie baked a caramelised apple tart upside-down by mistake. Regardless she served her guests the unusual dish hot from the oven and a classic was born."
My version uses the Roux method of quick cooking the apples, sugar and butter to caramel then topping it with a puff pastry lid and baking it. It is them turned upside down and served hot with some whipped creme fraiche. This is one of Ann Sly's favorites.
Lastly is the Chocolate Mousse. Unlike the classic French Chocolate mousse, Michael's is made with the addition of whipped cream. Another Hutching's touch is that it is flavored with Bourbon Whiskey. It is delicious.
There you have it. Come by Sly's and have a taste of Santa Barbara restaurant history.
You might see me in the kitchen cranking on the pasta machine!
Tastefully,
Chef Michael Hutchings
Food, Drink, Recipes
February 11, 2012
February 08, 2012
Michael's Waterside Revival at Sly's
Michael's Waterside
I have never been tarred and feathered, burned in effigy nor banned in Boston. But for the coming weeks, I will be revived, foodwise, at Sly's restaurant in Carpinteria, CA.
Followers of this blog know that I owned a restaurant call Michael's Waterside from 1894-1995. We were associated with the renowned Roux brothers of London fame. For the next few weeks my dear friend Chef James Sly will be serving several of the classical dishes we were known for at Michael's Waterside. If you have not dined at Sly's, its a good time to be introduced to the restaurant and enjoy some of my classics at the hand of another master, chef James Sly. 805 684-6666 for reservations.
Tastefully,
Chef Michael Hutchings
Winemaker Dinner at Carr Winery
Saturday, February 18, 2012
6:30pm until 10:30pm
This Valentine's Day weekend treat your sweetheart to an unforgettable evening featuring Library & Current Release Carr Wines paired with the culinary creations of Chef Michael Hutchings.
Guests will enjoy an exceptional four~course menu featuring Santa Barbara's freshest seasonal ingredients in the ambiance of the Barrel Room at Carr Winery.
Limited to 50 guests.
$140 ~ Per Person:: Wine Club Members
$175 ~ Per Person:: Non~Members
Reserve your seat by calling 805.965.7985 or online at http://carrwinery.com/winestore/index.php?cPath=21
MENU
Palate Teasers
Gougiere - Gruyere Cheese Puffs
Fondant Potato Coins with Crispy Pancetta & Creme Fraiche
Shiitake Mushroom Croquette
2010 Carr Pinot Gris, Turner Vineyard, Sta. Rita Hills
Library Pinot Gris
I.
Local Lobster Medallion
in a beurre rouge sauce fennel and spinach
2009 Carr Pinot Noir, Kessler-Haak Vineyard, Sta. Rita Hills
Library Pinot Noir
II.
"Sous Vide" Breast of Duckling
vanilla perfumed red wine reduction on french lentils
2009 Carr Grenache, Paredon Vineyard, Santa Barbara County
Library Grenache
III.
Beef Tenderloin Medallion
on pommes galette green peppercorn demi glace
2009 Carr Cabernet Franc, Camp Four Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley
Library Cabernet Franc
IV.
Chocolate Velvet Cake
with fresh pears
2009 Carr Late Harvest Pinot Gris, Turner Vineyard, Sta. Rita Hills
Carr Winery
414 N. Salsipuedes St., Santa Barbara, CA 93103
View Map · Get Directions
January 27, 2012
Canapés and Butler Passed Hors d'Oeuvres
Canapes Ready to Present
We have a passion for little bites for cocktail receptions and "standing dinners." Canapés have come a long ways since the 50s when such "delights" as pigs in a blanket, chicken liver rumaki and cheese straws were the standard. Often we do a whole dinner a bite at a time. The art is both in the selection of the items and in the presentation. Call us today for a complimentary menu consultation. Click on this link for sample menus. Link to menus Click here for a slide show.
Enjoy the slide show.
Tastefully,
Chef Michael
Michael's Catering
January 15, 2012
Tangerine Tarts
Tangerine Tarts
Chef Christine Dahl is a magician with sugar, eggs, chocolate, flour and fruit. She pulled these gems out of her "toque" for a local country club. Pate sucrée is a butter rich pastry dough with a crumbly texture well suited for fruit tarts.
Stats:
Crust, pate sucree
Filling, Tangerine curd
Garnish, white chocolate sticks and tangerine sections
Topping, whipped cream
Flavor, delicious.
January 11, 2012
Compliments to the Chef
"Hi Michael, This is long overdue: But I wanted to thank you for a superb performance by you and your team for the MAW Auxiliary Party on December 9th at Scott Reed's.
I have heard nothing but RAVE reviews by all who were there, even Marilyn Horne commented very favorably. So thank you. The presentation was beautiful, food delicious as expected and the service impeccable.
Thanks for making me look good too. We have already decided to hold the next Holiday party at the Music Academy so that will make logistics easier for all. I will contact you but it will probably be on Friday, December 7th. "
Marilyn Zellet for the Music Academy of the West
December 08, 2011
Wedding Cake Classic
Pastry chef Christine Dahl makes amazing cakes. The photo above and compliment below tells the story. Folks do not just like her creations, they are mesmerized!
Chef Michael Hutchings
"Dear Christine:
I write simply to tell you that the wedding cake you built for Helen and Brendan this past weekend was simply spectacular! Helen and I stood in front of it for ages marveling at its drama, proportion, beauty and classicism. I cannot thank you enough for taking such great care and producing such a masterpiece. It was also delicious, of course – thoroughly delicious.
I haven’t received any pictures of it yet but plan to spend a lot of time admiring them! I really was overcome by what a fabulous job you did and write simply to thank you very, very much for the triumph!
Merry Christmas! Sarah (Brown) "
November 18, 2011
Wedding Cake by Christine Dahl
Pastry Chef Christine Dahl, Chrsitine Dahl Pastries, creates amazine wedding cakes. Chef Christine creates some 175 unique wedding cakes every year. No two are alike. Not just a pretty cake, they also taste great. The reason is simple, 30 years of experience and dedication to the craft of baking. The recipe is simple.
Great Ingredients + Classic Recipes + Experience = Great Cakes
This ribbon cake design is one of my favorites. Ribbons of fondant are wrapped around the cake and are highlighted with an edible silver paint. The cake layers are as level as if a laser guided the construction. Handmade sugar roses complete a classic look.
Chef Michael Hutchings
October 25, 2011
Lobero Theater Mangia del'Arte Event
Last Saturday we were participated in an event at the Lobero Theatre in Santa Barbara. The event, called Mangia del'Arte, was a sort of live theater in the round laced with performances, food and wine. I have catered a wide variety of events in my 40 year career. This event was one of the most unique in concept and complexity. It was described as controlled chaos by John Daly. The juggling magic was not just on stage but also in coordinating the plating of the dinner to mesh with the performances.
David Asbell, the director of the theater, and the renowned event planner John Daly, created the event. Nine restaurants and catering companies prepared 13 courses of "small plate" dishes. We plated 2275 servings in 2-1/2 hours, served by 25 service staff.
The producer of the entertainment was Peter Lesnik. In his words, " After 27 years as an Executive Director of 5 successful performing arts centers, I have created The PLAN, a company dedicated to making art a part of daily life. I accomplish this by producing accessible, meaningful work, programming shows and series that are audience-centric, and by working with arts executives and their boards to create a common language and help define roles, responsibilities and structured interactions. Quick, direct and articulate are terms that have been used to describe my modus operandi. The bottom line is where we all end up, so keeping that in mind is critical for avoiding surprises."
Preceding and during the dinner, there were some 12 acts performed by a sort of Medieval style troupe that performed magic, juggling, acrobatic feats and more. The performers included Tandy Beal, Jeff Raz, Saki, Calvin Kai Ku, Wang Hong, Andrey Moraru and SoVoSo. The performers hail from theater and new wave circus backgrounds.
The chef's hang their toques at The Marquee, Blush Restaurant, Adama Vegan Comfort Food, Petit Valentien, Michael's Catering, Chase Restaurant and Lounge, Paradise Cafe, Soujourner Cafe and Restaurant and Wine Cask Restaurant & Intermezzo Car Café. Babcock Winery poured their fabulous wines.
A special thanks goes out to my staff including Hugo Alvarado (kitchen) and Carlos Santana (service captain) and the forty other back-of-the house crew that labored in the kitchen.
Tastefully,
Chef Michael Hutchings
Michael's Catering
Santa Barbara, CA
October 17, 2011
Girls Inc Fundraiser 2011
Buffet Table of The Berryman Donations
This past Sunday we catered an event at Girls Inc. in Carpinteria. A Taste for Carpinteria is a major fund raising event for Girls Inc. Carpinteria. This year, over 500 participants, vendors and sponsors came together to celebrate and support STRONG, SMART, BOLD girls and young women of the Carpinteria Valley.
Chef, Michael Hutchings lead a group of local restaurants who served delectable and tantalizing tastes of their delicious culinary creations along with wine from local vineyards and our own local brewery, while guests perused the silent and live auctions selections which included incredible items such as a 2 hour sunset cruise aboard the beautiful Condor Express.
The The Berryman Produce was a major food sponsor and donated generously to the event. The Berryman Produce is the premium produce supplier in Santa Barbara Country and was founded by Guy DeMangeon. Located on Montecito Street in Santa Barbara, The Berryman offers a full assortment of produce as well as dairy, specialty dry goods and dessert selections. For more information contact Jean-Pierre at 805 965-3772.
Hollandia Produce provided a bounty of their Live Gourmet lettuces for the chef's salad. Hollandia Produce LLC. is a multi-faceted agricultural concern specializing in greenhouse-grown vegetables. A California Corporation family owned and operated, Hollandia is located in Carpinteria, California, just south of Santa Barbara. In 2011 the company celebrated 41 years in business.
Chef Michael prepared a salad from Hollandia Produce products using a recipe from chef Freddy Orduna. Chef Freddy runs the kitchen at Sly's restaurant in Carpinteria.
Hollandia Produce Product Line
This favorite and fun event benefits local girls and young women ages 5 to 19 by providing funding for essential programs that empower them to realize their potential, gain confidence, learn new skills and exchange ideas in a safe, friendly and fun environment.
These programs include project BOLD, Friendly PEERsuasion, Media Literacy, Preventing Adolescent Pregnancy, and Operation SMART. In addition to these already great programs provided by Girls Inc, this year, Girls Inc is looking to bring Eureka to Carpinteria. Eureka is a three-year program that takes the “whole girl” approach (strong, smart, bold) while expanding their sense of what is possible for the future. During the first two summers, girls spend four weeks on a college campus participating in hands-on activities in math, science, technology, sports, personal development, college readiness, and careers. The third summer, girls participate in a four week paid internship in a career field of their choice hosted by successful professional women.
September 23, 2011
Wedding Cake by Christine Dahl
Sugar, spice and everything nice, that's what wedding cakes are made of
Chef Christine Dahl, Christine Dahl Pastries, makes amazing cakes. What fantasies she spins from eggs, flour, sugar, butter and colors. The wedding season is in full swing and Chef Dahl creates up to eight of these masterpieces every week, no two being the same.
Not just a pretty face, these cakes have flavor. Crafted from butter creams, fresh fruit curds, bittersweet chocolate mousses and a bounty of fresh fruits, these creations are a joy to eat. As the consummate artist, Chef Christine personally installs each cake and arranges the floral decorations with the eye of an artist. My favorite is devil's food cake, chocolate ganache and raspberries with a white veil of fondat icing. Chef Dahl can be reached at 805 569-5889
Chef Michael Hutchings
Michael's Catering
Santa Barbara, CA
Wedding at the Montecito Country Club
Elegant Hope Ranch Wedding for One Hundred and Eighty Guests
September 22, 2011
Girls Inc. Fundraiser
We are delighted to be part of Girls Inc. of Carpinteria 2011 "A Taste for Carpinteria" garden party and auction. Local wineries, chefs and restaurants will be offering delicious tastes of their specialties. Come and support this important organization that empowers young girls.
Chef Michael Hutchings
A Taste for Carpinteria
Sunday, October 16th, 2011
1:00 pm - 4:00 pm
Cost: $50 per person
805 684-6364 for information
Girls Inc. of Carpinteria is hosting its 15th Annual “A Taste for Carpinteria” Sunday October 16th 2011 from 1pm-4pm at 5315 Foothill Road, Carpinteria CA 93013.
A Taste for Carpinteria is a major fund-raising event for Girls Inc. Carpinteria. Last year, over 500 participants, vendors and sponsors came together to celebrate and support STRONG, SMART, BOLD girls and young women of the Carpinteria Valley. This year, renown Chef, Michael Hutchings will lead a group of local restaurants who will serve delectable and tantalizing tastes of their delicious culinary creations along with wine from local vineyards and our own local brewery will be featured, while guests peruse the silent and live auctions selections which will include incredible items such as a 2 hour sunset cruise for you and up to 147 of your closest friends aboard the beautiful Condor Express.
This favorite and fun event benefits local girls and young women ages 5 to 19 by providing funding for essential programs that empower them to realize their potential, gain confidence, learn new skills and exchange ideas in a safe, friendly and fun environment.
About Girls Inc.
"Girls Incorporated® is a nonprofit organization that inspires all girls to be strong, smart, and bold. With local roots dating to 1864 and national status since 1945, Girls Inc. has responded to the changing needs of girls through research-based programs and public education efforts that empower girls to understand, value, and assert their rights. We provide programs for girls 6 to 18 years old that focus on science, math, and technology; health and sexuality; economic and financial literacy; sports skills; leadership and advocacy; and media literacy."
August 31, 2011
Potato Appetizers
Potatoes are one of those "blank canvass" foods like eggs, veal and chicken that has innumerable treatments, cooking methods and sauce combinations. Most often they are a side dish to an entree of some sort. By Chef Bart Hosmer from a Mariott hotel came up with a new variation. I found it on The Idaho Potato Board web page where they have potato recipes submitted by chefs.
Consider the potato: mashed and variation, fried and variations, baked, sauteed, steamed, boiled, powdered, stuffed and that is only the cooking method. Add all the ingredient variations and the possibilities are endless.
I was happy to find a new hors d'oeuvre-tapas style potato that will be a hit at any reception, Potato "Lollipops." Simpley put, they are deep fried potato rounds on a stick that are served with some type of sauce.
Here are a few sauce ideas. Bacon-Mustard Aioli, Cheddar Bechamel, Arugula Cream, Truffles Mayonnaise, Rosemary Hollandaise, Pesto Cream, Smoked Salmon Tatziki, Saffron Hummus, Red Pepper Coulis, Stroganoff Sauce, Curried Bechamel.
Tastefully,
Chef Michael Hutchings
Michael's Catering
Santa Barbara, CA
Fall Dinner Entrees
Here are some of my latest menu additions for the fall and winter catering season. They play off the seasons and offer deluxe and more modest menu items. Call today for a complimentary catering proposal.
Chef Michael Hutchings
Michael's Catering
Modest Menu Entrees
Roasted Atlantic Cod Sauce Americaine
seasonal vegetables, saffron cauliflower - potato puree
Grilled Flatiron Steak
spice rubbed, parmesan-bread pudding, corn and roasted pepper succotash
Seabass and Sliced Beef Sirloin Duo
polenta cake, Swiss chard
Deluxe Menu Entrees
Roasted East Coast Lobster and Lobster Ballontine
heirloom carrots, roasted cherry tomatoes
Grilled Beef Tenderloin
braised leeks, peas and mashed potatoes, light jus, rosemary sprig
Wild Stripped Bass
with polenta cake, braised swiss chard, heirloom beets and leek crisps
New York Steak
with Fondant Potato, swiss chard and red wine jus
August 30, 2011
"Gourmet" Hamburger Buffet
Deluxe Hamburger Buffet
Growing up in Southern California meant that hamburger joints were our Morton's Steakhouse. Going out to McDonalds was a treat for the whole family. I fondly remember having 10¢ hamburgers and a vanilla shake at Joe's after delivering my newspaper route (delivered on bicycle, hand folded). The flavor of the home-grilled burgers, smokey from the BBQ flames, still evokes memories of Sunday dinners with dad manning the grill.
Segue to my catering world some 45 years later. We often get requests for a hamburger buffet for weddings and other special occasion events. We put as much emphasis on preparation as we would a filet mignon dinner at an upscale gala.
There are no mysterious secrets. We buy great ingredients and use classic cooking methods to prepare the menu. Burgers are cooked on site at the last minute. We have a custom baker make old fashioned kaiser rolls, multi-grain and ciabatta. We get bibb lettuce from a local grower, use vine tomatoes, make out own ketchup and mustard and have great sides.
Our Deluxe Burger Bar is a long ways from those fast food days. Have a look and the menu below and enjoy the slide show. Call us today for a complimentary proposal.
Chef Michael Hutchings
Michael's Catering
Santa Barbara, CA
Deluxe Burger Buffet - Tail fo Two Weddings
Chef Mike’s Burger Bar
With Fresh tomatoes, red onions, lettuce and dill pickle
Prime Beef Sirloin Corn fed prime beef ground fresh and grilled over oak.
Black Angus Beef Grain fed beef from America’s heartland. This all-natural beef is succulent and flavorful.
American Kobe Beef This American Kobe Beef is tender with an unmatched flavor, the most expensive beef in the world for the ultimate beef burger.
Colorado Lamb Raised in the mountains of Colorado, this is delightful alternate meat for your burger.
Turkey Freshly ground free range turkey is a naturally delicious and tasty choice for a lean burger.
Chef’s Veggie Burger This vegan burger highlights meatless flavor with its delicious combination of whole grains, caramelized onions, soy, soy cheese, mushroom, garlic and spices.
Bison Burger Lean and all American, this meat is a natural from the plains.
Un-Burger Sandwiches
Marinated Chicken Breast Organic chicken breast marinated in herbs then grilled.
Atlantic King Salmon Steak This delicious Omega 3 rich salmon is hand cut in our kitchen and is oak grilled.
Tropical Chicken Marinated-grilled chicken breast, bacon, roasted pineapple, and caramelized onions on sesame bun.
Lox on a Bun King salmon steak, smoked salmon, sour cream, dill, red onion on whole wheat bun
Our Breads and Buns
Sesame / Onion / Whole Wheat / Plain / Ciabatta
Choose Your Toppings and Sides
Greens and Things Baby spinach Sprouts, Coleslaw, Avocado, Chopped jalapeno, Sliced cucumber
Grilled Sides Zucchini, Asparagus, Red onion, Caramelized onion, Jet Fresh Pineapple
Seafood Sides Smoked salmon, Grilled half lobster, Grilled shrimp, Crab cake
Cheeses Cheddar, American, Swiss, Provolone, Monterey Jack, Mozzarella, Blue cheese, Peppered Jack, Fried egg, Pan-seared foie gras steaks, Homemade chili
Sauce Sides Pesto sauce, Salsa, Guacamole, Spicy Mustard, Aioli, Our ketchup, Brown gravy
Mushrooms Black truffles, Portobello mushrooms, Oyster mushrooms, Crimini mushrooms
Fries Skinny fries, Steak fries, Sweet potato fries, Buttermilk zucchini fries, Skinny onion rings
Chef‘s Burgers Served With Skinny Fries
Black Angus Classic Black Angus, Monterey Jack, onion relish, tomato, lettuce, on ciabatta bun
Joe’s Special Sirloin beef, American cheese, crispy bacon, tomato, onion, on sesame bun
Super Deluxe Kobe beef, sautéed foie gras, shaved truffles, Madeira sauce, on onion bun
Beef and Lobster Burger Black Angus, grilled half lobster, grilled green asparagus on plain bun
Low Carb Burger Sirloin Beef, portobello, peppers, coleslaw, pesto sauce and mixed organic baby greens, hold the fries!
Gwen’s Veggie Burger Organic veggie patty, peppers, portobello, asparagus on whole-wheat bun
Salads
Caesar Crisp romaine hearts, shaved parmesan, crunchy croutons, Caesar dressing
with grilled chicken breast.
Shrimp Salad Mixed organic baby greens, sun-dried tomatoes, grilled shrimp, cilantro and Yuzu-sesame dressing.
The Greek Salad Mixed organic baby greens, feta cheese, tomato, basil, kalamata olives, and eggplant confit and honey balsamic dressing.
Classic Cobb Salad Romaine lettuce, chopped chicken breast, bacon, tomato, avocado, cheddar, hard-boiled egg, blue cheese and house dressing
Kid’s Meal Served With Skinny Fries, For kids 12 and under.
Little Joe’s Mini Patty Cheese burger with lettuce, pickles, onion and tomato.
Grilled Cheese Sandwich White bread with American cheese
Our Sweets
Warm Donuts With out bitter-sweet chocolate sauce
Creamy Cheese Cake NY Style with a graham cracker crust
Shakes and Floats Vanilla / Peanut butter / Chocolate / Combo / Strawberry
Brown Cow / Banana / Root beer float / Espresso
Warm Walnut-Espresso Brownie Served with fresh berries and vanilla ice cream
Salt Pecan Sundae Vanilla ice cream, caramel sauce, chocolate sauce and salty pecans.
August 14, 2011
Chanterelle - The Last One Standing?
Lone Chanterelle Fruiting August 13, 2011
Followers of this blog will have read a number of postings about the fantastic chanterelle season we had this last winter and the very rare summer harvest that followed. We went out to our "Spot" yesterday to see what might have cropped up. Every three days we have watered the area that was showing erasure-sized mushroom buds. Who knows if that had any real effect? The main reason why there have been summer chanterelles in Santa Barbara county is the heavy rains we has this past season and a very wet, foggy weather pattern in the overnight and morning times.
We did manage to fine ONE very small chanterelle in an area we have watered. While the growth is stunted by local mushroom standards. It was perfectly formed and fresh. I joked about making a quail-egg-sized omelet to use this mini mushroom. My chef friend James Sly asked if we were inhibiting next years crop by harvesting this summer bloom.
Good question. We might have found/picked 1/10 percent of what was out in this area. I am sure millions of spores went out. Also, we do not pick the plant but the fruit, so the mycelium, the underground plant, is still there in symbiosis with the oak trees. The mushrooms seem to come and go by their own somewhat mysterious cycles. Rain is essential. Then there are temperature patterns, nutrients available and the unknown.
John Rodwell, who owned Meadow Mist Mushrooms in Solvang, CA, once told me there were some 50 critical steps to growing the common white mushroom, agaricus bisporus, found in the supermarkets. This link has some of the details on how that is done. Here is an excerpt for those of you interested in the nitty-gritty details. Just getting the growing medium prepared requires a number of critical steps. It is little wonder that chanterelle cultivation defies understanding.
Chef Michael Hutchings
Michael's Catering
Santa Barbara, CA
Phase I composting
"The preparation of mushroom compost is usually done in two stages. The breakdown of raw ingredients begins in Phase I. Phase I is characterized by building the raw ingredients into long rectangular piles approximately 2 m high called "ricks" or "windrows" (figure to the left). These stacks are then periodically turned, watered, and formed. This phase is essentially a microbiological process resulting in release of energy and heat. To favor the development of relatively high temperatures, aerobic conditions are maintained by aerating the compost during repeated mixing or turning. Temperature fluctuations during this phase are paralleled by similar changes in the numbers of thermophilic (heat loving) bacteria. These organisms start to grow rapidly and release energy in the form of heat. Thermogenesis by microorganisms initiates the heating of Phase I and also produces heat in Phase II. The internal temperature of a compost pile can reach up to 80oC. Traditional Phase I composting lasts from 7 to 14 days depending on the condition of the material at the start and its characteristics at each turn. It is considered complete when the raw ingredients have become pliable and are capable of holding water. The odor of ammonia should be sharp, and the color of the compost is dark-brown in color, indicating caramelization and browning reactions have occurred.
Phase II composting
It is primarily the control of the environment that distinguishes Phase II from Phase I. Typically, compost is loaded into wooden trays, which are stacked, and then placed in specially designed rooms where the environmental conditions can be manipulated (figure to the right). Phase II is commonly referred to as peak-heating and may be initiated by steam. Pasteurization is accomplished early in the Phase II operation and is necessary to kill many insects, nematodes, and other pests or pathogens that may be present in the compost. Pasteurization requires air and compost temperatures of 66oC for a minimum of 2 hours. Once pasteurization is accomplished, cool air is introduced into the Phase II room to assure adequate oxygen, and to help dissipate ammonia. An important function of Phase II microbes that survive the pasteurization process is the conversion of residual ammonia into protein. Because ammonia is lethal to the mushroom mycelium, it must be removed by the end of Phase II. A stage is reached when the available food supplies for organisms inhabiting the compost become quite limiting, hence their activity decreases. The substrate is now set for A. bisporus to take over, and the substrate is said to be 'selective' for the growth of the mushroom. Once the odor of ammonia is no longer present, Phase II is over and the compost temperature can be dropped to 24oC for the addition of the mushroom mycelium, called 'spawning.' " by Tom Volk Visit his web page for more details. Here is another link with even more details on mushroom cultivation.
Mini Chanterelle
August 12, 2011
Wine in Santa Barbara
Saint Emilion Château Fonplegade
Santa Barbara is often called The American Riviera. It is clearly an upscale, lifestyle community. Living in proximity to one of the world's premium wine regions is a plus to the area. On a recent bike excursion on State Street, the main street through the business district, we stopped to check out a new restaurant called Casa Blanca. Parked in front was a bicycle with a French first growth wine box on the back. I thought, "Only in Santa Barbara."
Chef Michael Hutchings
Michael's Catering
Santa Barbara, CA
"This magnificient, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé château is owned by Americans Stephen and Denise Adams, who also own Château L'Enclos. It comprises some 18 hectares on the limestone plateau of Saint Emilion, close to Châteaux Canon and Canon la Gaffelière and the vines average about 30 years old. Made from 91% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon, it is fermented in wooden vats and aged for between 18 and 24 months in 100% new French barrels. Huge investments have been made in both the vineyards, which are farmed organically and in the stunning, state-of-the-art winery, which is a study in functionality and beauty. The resulting wines are plush, silky and generous with beautiful purity and elegance Their delicious 2nd wine, Fleur de Fonplégade, is made from the younger vines on the property and displays the class of the grand vin in a lighter, more forward style.
Since 2009, the vineyard has been farmed biodynamically in order to obtain better minerality in the wine." from Thorman Hunt and Co. Limited
Ridgeback Shrimp from Santa Barbara Channel
The Santa Barbara Sellfish Company has been serving up local seafood since the early 1980s. There are live tanks that hold crabs, abalone and lobsters from local resources. One of the most delicious catches is the Ridgeback Shrimp. Back in the early 80s there was a considerable harvest of the small crayfish (technically not shrimp at all). The Shellfish Company would get first selection from boats as they entered the harbor and at times, the shrimp were still alive. Tom White, the owner, had a contraption that would shell the shrimp and remove the intestinal track to deliver a cleaned and ready product. I loved serving them in chowders, with local sea bass and in a fish sausage.
Moving forward to today, the ridgebacks are a limited catch and only small, less that 50 pounds, amounts are allowed to be harvested. We are always on the alert to see if the Shellfish Company is offering the shrimp at the end of the wharf. We enjoyed a bowl full of peel and eat ridgbacks washed down with a local Firestone beer.
To quote a sage of the kitchen, James Sly, "Why do we live in Santa Barbara?"
Chef Michael Hutchings
Michael's Catering
Santa Barbara
August 08, 2011
Picnic at Thompson Vineyards with Jaffurs Cellars
This past weekend we catered an alfresco event for Jaffurs Cellars at the Thompson Vineyard in the Los Alamos area of Santa Barbara County. The setting was under an oak tree and next to a pond on the vineyard property. I created a Frenchified picnic menu that would compliment the Rhone style wines that Jaffurs produces. Jaffurs poured cellar selections that included wines produced from the Thompson Vineyard's grapes.
Trio of Appetizers: Shrimp Procençale, Marinated Olives, Boccancini Mozzarella
It was a picture perfect day to tour the vines, drink the wines and dine on delicious cuisine. I did a riff on a vegetable terrine that the Troisgros brothers created back in the 1970s. Their version had "kilos" of black truffles and that was not in this budget. I opted for a chicken mousseline base with haricot vert, shiitake, carrots and peas with a tarragon dressing. Included in the entree was breast of duck and a potted salmon with smoked and fresh salmon. Dessert was my favorite, Tart Tatin with a lavender spiked whipped cream.
Tastefully,
Chef Michael Hutchings
Michael's Catering
Santa Barbara, CA
The Menu
Duck Breast, Vegetable Terrine and Salmon Rillette
Tart Tatin with Lavender Whipped Cream
Dining Under the Oaks
From the Thompson Vineyard web page: "The steep hillsides and south facing exposure of the Thompson Vineyard ensures complete ripeness and produces an amazing concentration, robust dark crimson color and equally rich flavors. The Thompson vineyard consists of 37 acres planted in Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Grenache, Mourvedre, Petite Sirah, and Pinot Gris, but it is known primary for its Estrella Clone of Syrah.
The grapes from this vineyard produce chunky and fruit-driven wine in its youth and, with a few years in bottle, develops complex animal notes and subtle Indian spices. The level of viticulture (from Jeff Newton and team) is amazing with the soils depleted of nutrients and the vines rarely crop over 2.5 tons per acre even in the most robust of years. As one of our more "proven" vineyards, the easiest way to judge it is to try one of the compelling wines made from the vineyard from Vie or other prominent wineries including Bedford Thompson Winery, Ojai Vineyard, Jaffurs Wines, Tensley Wines, Copain Wine Cellars, and Sine Qua Non.
Thompson vineyard fruit is also used by Babcock Winery, Kenneth-Crawford Winery, Eberle Winery, Red Car Winery, Beckman Vineyards, Old Creek, Palmina Wines, Santa Barbara Winery, Sanguis, Gallo, and Siempre."
August 01, 2011
Bratwurst and Porcini Mushroom Hash
Porcini mushrooms are in season somewhere in the world all the time. In August, they are coming from the state of Oregon. Porcini are one of the most satisfying mushrooms to find and delicious to eat. The meat texture and earthy taste blends well with many recipes. I used a few recently to make a porcini hash and I served it with my own fresh bratwurst for breakfast. Other wild mushroom would work well for this dish. Always rely on an expert identification when collecting and eating wild foods. I have included the recipes at end of this blog.
If you like all the technical information, read the excerpt from Wikipedia below.
Tastefully,
Chef Michael Hutchings
From Wikipedia: "Boletus edulis, commonly known as penny bun, porcino or cep, is a basidiomycete fungus, and the type species of the genus Boletus. Widely distributed in the Northern Hemisphere across Europe, Asia, and North America, it does not occur naturally in the Southern Hemisphere, although it has been introduced to southern Africa, Australia and New Zealand. Several closely related European mushrooms formerly thought to be varieties or forms of B. edulis have been shown using molecular phylogenetic analysis to be distinct species, and others previously classed as separate species are conspecific with this species. The western North American species commonly known as the California king bolete (Boletus edulis var. grandedulis) is a large, darker-coloured variant that was first formally identified in 2007.
The fungus grows in deciduous and coniferous forests and tree plantations, forming symbiotic ectomycorrhizal associations with living trees by enveloping the tree's underground roots with sheaths of fungal tissue. The fungus produces spore-bearing fruit bodies above ground in summer and autumn. The fruit body has a large brown cap which on occasion can reach 35 cm (14 in) in diameter and 3 kg (6.6 lb) in weight. Like other boletes, it has tubes extending downward from the underside of the cap, rather than gills; spores escape at maturity through the tube openings, or pores. The pore surface of the B. edulis fruit body is whitish when young, but ages to a greenish-yellow. The stout stipe, or stem, is white or yellowish in colour, up to 25 cm (10 in) tall and 10 cm (3.9 in) thick, and partially covered with a raised network pattern, or reticulations.
Prized as an ingredient in various foods, B. edulis is an edible mushroom held in high regard in many cuisines, and is commonly prepared and eaten in soups, pasta, or risotto. The mushroom is low in fat and digestible carbohydrates, and high in protein, vitamins, minerals and dietary fibre. Although it is sold commercially, it has not been successfully grown in cultivation. Available fresh in autumn in Central, Southern and Northern Europe, it is most often dried, packaged and distributed worldwide. Keeping its flavour after drying, it is then reconstituted and used in cooking. Boletus edulis is one of the few fungi that are sold pickled. The fungus also produces a variety of organic compounds with a diverse spectrum of biological activity, including the steroid derivative ergosterol, a sugar binding protein, antiviral compounds, antioxidants, and phytochelatins, which give the organism resistance to toxic heavy metals."
July 27, 2011
Downey's Restaurant
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My chef-friend John Downey has operated one of the bedrock restaurants in Santa Barbara since 1982. Here is an exerpt from John's web page and latest newsletter. Consider dining with chef John.
"John Downey knew that he wanted to become a chef at the age of 12 in his native England. By the time he was 16, John was attending cooking school and working in local restaurants. At 19 he was cooking for Britain's Queen Elizabeth aboard her namesake ocean liner QE2 while seeing the world. In 1972 John settled down in New York and learned the finer points of classic French cuisine while working at one of that city's best restaurants; Lafayette. An invitation to join the "New American" food movement put him working under the advisory of James Beard at the World Trade Center's "Market Dining Rooms". Freshness was key. It was very good food. A passion was ignited in New York and Chef Downey was compelled to travel to California where so much of that good food was produced. Arriving in Santa Barbara in 1978, John brought his years of experience; English, French Nouvelle, New American and commenced a seachange of fine dining in this town. About the same time, Alice Waters in San Francisco and Wolfgang Puck in L.A. were also changing the way Californians would dine out. It would be termed "California Cuisine" by the food press. In 1982 we opened Downey's in the very heart of the best farming region in the country.
News from Downey's Restaurant Dear E-Club Members…
The Downey family are all back safely at sea-level. This year Liz joined Phillip and me on our annual Sierra trip to the top of Mt. Whitney. Cooking is a little different up there, but suffice to say that I think we all ate pretty well under the circumstances. I usually prepare nutritious dinners ahead and then de-hydrate them to minimize pack-weight. I think my favorite meal though was a very carefully preserved salad that was fresh from the previous Saturday’s farmers’ market. That really hit the spot after a rather grueling summit day! But enough of this…The Celebration of Summer Dinner is next Wednesday and I wanted to share my ideas for the menu. Summertime always offers so much good food to use; in fact it’s difficult to decide what to leave out!
We will start with some of the Wild King Salmon that I’ve been getting from Northern California. I’ll smoke this over alderwood chips and serve it with a little salad of fresh shell beans. I saw some lovely beans from Fairview Gardens last week; I think they were the “Tongue of Fire” variety. (Don’t you love the names of the beans?) Second course will be a Chilled Tomato Soup which is back by very popular demand this year. The entrée will be a nice thick slice of Natural Beef Ribeye served with Choron Sauce and Grilled Summer Vegetables. For dessert we’ll have an updated version of the very first dessert I ever made back in 1964. Now in 2011 I’ll make a new version of that Classic Peach Melba, using fresh peaches, strawberry sauce and our own ice-cream.
The Celebration of Summer Dinner will be served on Wednesday, August 3rd, and the cost will be $50 per person. Please call 966-5006 for reservations or visit our website at www.DowneysSB.com and you can “book” through our website!
On another note…We are pleased with the result of our offering online reservations through our website. We hope it is working well for you also. Occasionally the computer may tell you that we are fully booked at a certain time when actually we might have a table available. If this should happen to you, it’s certainly worth a good old fashioned phone call to see if we can help you with a reservation. 805 966 5006.
Cheers,
John & Liz"
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Wedding Cakes
It is wedding season in Santa Barbara. My pastry chef-wife, Christine Dahl, makes up to eight wedding cakes a week during the season. Occasionally, I help deliver the cakes to the various venues around town. Her work is very classical. It's hard to imagine the skill it takes to freehand pipe the intricate decorations. Here are a couple of gems.
Chef Michael Hutchings
July 25, 2011
Chanterelle Omelet Soufflé
Christine, my Chanterelle "Hound"
Once again, we were lucky finding rare summer chanterelles in the Santa Barbara foothills area. Our spot, tucked into a deep canyon in the foothills, has a micro climate that has fostered a rare bloom. Unlike the winter chanterelles, these little gems have not been larger than 2-1/2 inches. They seem to be growing new buttons as we find more in the same location. In fact, we have taken to watering the area in the hopes of encouraging the erasure-sized buttons to grow. I think there is one more crop to harvest, maybe as late as August!
I have let my wife Christine do the dirty work of searching amongst the detritus and poison oak. I am still recovering from lunging into a poison oak patch when I first spotted a mid-summer bloom of chanterelles some 10 days ago. Gastronomy overcame my past experiences with the nasty weed. The mushroom outcrop seems to run in downhill veins in an area that has high moisture six inches under the surface. The "spot" is only 15 feet wide and is at the bottom of a steep canyon area. They appear to be mini versions of the typical golden chanterelle that we find in the winter, cantharellus californicus. I am wondering, though, if it might be another variant more related to the cantherellus cibarius. In any event, they are delicious and have a crisp, crunchy texture even after cooking.
Now what? We cook them, naturally. Breakfast today was an archaic omelet call Omelette Soufflé. The dish is an egg preparation that involves separating the egg yolks and white, beating them into a froth, folding them together with seasonings and herbs and baking them in an omelet pan. In this case, I made creamed corn with chanterelles because we could. We filmed a slide show of all the proceedings. It is punctuated with our inane ramblings but it will give you the gist of the dish. We do not eat like this all the time, but often!
Tastefully,
Chef Michael Hutchings
Michael's Catering, Santa Barbara
Chanterelles and Creamed Corn
Omelette Soufflé aux Chanterelles
The Video
Hunting and Cooking Chanterelles
July 24, 2011
Sea Bass or Cod with Olive
Cod with Olive, Photo cuisinetv.com
Summer is always a great time to enjoy the local seafood from the Santa Barbara channel. The local catch brings in black cod and sea bass, among other fin fish. Day boat fisherman pull these from the depths of the channel and off-load them at the Santa Barbara harbor.
Here is a simple recipe that can be prepared in less than 30 minutes. This can be prepared an hour or so before serving and reheated in the oven. Be sure to leave it underdone after the first cooking. Sea bass or halibut are great substitutes. You will need to adjust the cooking time according to the thickness of the fillet and the type of fish.
Chef Michael Hutchings
July 13, 2011
Summer Chanterelles in Santa Barbara
If you have been following this blog, you know that I have a passion for hunting and cooking wild mushrooms. The reigning monarch of Santa Barbara mushrooms is the California Golden Chanterelle, Cibarius Californicus. My wife Christine and I found a rare summer bloom in a downtown Santa Barbara location. The combination of a wet winter, late rains and wet-foggy weather contributed to this late blooming.
"Cantharellus cibarius, commonly known as the chanterelle or golden chanterelle, is a fungus. It is probably the best known species of the genus Cantharellus, if not the entire family of Cantharellaceae. It is orange or yellow, meaty and funnel-shaped. On the lower surface, underneath the smooth cap, it has gill-like ridges that run almost all the way down its stipe, which tapers down seamlessly from the cap. It has a fruity smell, reminiscent of apricots and a mildly peppery taste (hence its German name, Pfifferling) and is considered an excellent edible mushroom." from Wikipedia
The mushrooms ranged from erasure-sized buttons to 1-1/2 inch gems. I have never seen them this small and wonder if that are not another genetic variation. I opted to make a simple French omelet with chanterelles, shallots and fresh herbs from the garden. These small mushrooms were crisp, even after cooking. What a treat. Enjoy the mushroom hunt and breakfast!
Chef Michael Hutchings
Michael's Catering
Santa Barbara, CA
Stalking the Wild Chanterelle, with apologies to Euell Gibbons
July 12, 2011
Chanterelles - A Rare Summer Treat
California Chanterelles - Found on July 11, 2011, Santa Barbara
My wife Christine and I have a standing, or better put walking joke about chanterelles. This past season was so phenomenal and ran well into the spring, that I offered more and more dollars if we could find just one more chanterelle. The price went from $25 to $10,000 as the season drew to a close. We still walk by and cast furtive glances at out "spots" that yielded some 35 pounds.
Yesterday, as we approached our"Spot" Christine asked "How much for a chanterelle?" My reply was, with my best Austin Powers accent, "One Million Dollars!" I glanced into the forest litter on the side of the path as I said this and noticed an apricot colored glint peaking out. I climbed, no I flew without caution into the poison-oak infected brush and realized that glint was a rare summer chanterelle.
I fell backward in euphoria and asked Christine to push my a_ _ back up the hill. I soon uncovered a dozen or so little button chanterelles in a small area. Some are as small as an erasure. Clearly, this was phenomenal. In 27 years of hunting mushroom on the central coast, I have never seen a summer bloom. Christine claims to have spotted the mushroom at or before I did but dismissed it as an orange peel. She has denied my claim to $1,000,000 ;(
I did a little researched confirmed that summer blooms do occur on rare occasions. A wet winter, late rains and moist foggy conditions are the culprit. The location is well shaded, covered in duff and in an area that stayed moist.
I spoke with Cory from The Berryman Produce and she said that they are getting calls form pickers that have mushroom to sell. I am sure the price will be well above the $5.50 a pound that they were going for at the height of the winter season. We have a plan to irrigate some of the button mushrooms to see if we can encourage growth. I will report on those results. In the meantime, I am planning a chanterelle dinner!
In Ectasy,
Chef Michael Hutchings
Santa Barbara, CA
Michael's Catering
Golden Chanterelles
July 11, 2011
The Apple Tart
La Tarte des Demoiselles Tatin
At the end of the 19th century, two sisters Caroline and Stéphanie Tatin ran a charming country hotel in the village of Lamotte-Beuvron situated in the beautiful region of Sologne of France. Stéphanie managed the hotel and Caroline cooked and prepared meals for the many hunters who spent the weekend in Sologne.
"Stretching southeast of Blois, the Sologne is one of those traditionally rural regions of France that help keep alive the national self-image. Depending on the weather and the season, it can be one of the most dismal areas in central France: damp, flat, featureless and foggy. But at other times its forests, lakes, ponds and marshes have a quiet magic – in summer, for example, when the heather is in bloom and the ponds are full of water lilies, or in early autumn when you can go hunting for mushrooms. Wild boar and deer roam here, not to mention the ducks, geese, quails and pheasants, who far outnumber the small human population." from France for Visitors
One day as legend has it, that Caroline in a moment of distraction, made an apple tart the wrong way, put the apples first in the pan then the pastry. She turned it upside down before presenting it to the customers who found this dessert truly delicious. The caramelized apples were pleasantly sweet and soft, and a new dessert superstar was born. Curnonsky, the famous gastronomy critic, named the dessert La Tarte des Demoiselles Tatin in 1926.
"Maurice Edmond Sailland (October 12, 1872, Angers, France – July 22, 1956, Paris), better known by his pen-name Curnonsky (nicknamed 'Cur'), and dubbed the Prince of Gastronomy, was the most celebrated writer on gastronomy in France in the 20th century. He wrote or ghost-wrote over 65 books and enormous numbers of newspaper columns. He is often considered the inventor of gastronomic motor-tourism as popularized by Michelin, though he himself could not drive." Wikipedia
My recipe for this classic follows below. I have also made the dessert with other fruits including peaches, pears and bananas. Each variation needs a little tweak to accommodate texture an sugar content.
Tastefully,
Chef Michael Hutchings
Michael's Catering
Hotel Tatin
My Tart Tatin
July 04, 2011
Rib of the BBQ Type
Chef Daniel Petersen with Ribs on the Grill
BBQ baby back ribs are one of the most primally satisfying pieces of meat on a bone. Washed down with a cold beer, this is a great summer treat. There are three, maybe four components to making perfect BBQ ribs. First off, buy good meat. Next pre-cook them until tender (see the recipe below). Next, build a good bed of coals using oak or mesquite charcoal. lastly, slather on a great BBQ sauce.
My chef-friend James Sly, chef/owner of Sly's in Carpinteria, has a great recipe for terrific ribs. Oddly, they are initially cooked in a savory beer-coca cola broth until tender. The results are tender, succulent, finger-licking-good ribs that have a sweet, smokey tang.
Happy grilling,
Chef Michael Hutchings
Michael's Catering, Santa Barbara
Off Loading Sea Urchins, Santa Barbara
Santa Barbara Harbor, Sea Urchin Catch
The Santa Barbara Channel, California has long been a major fishing area for some of the best sea urchin in the world. The urchins are abundant in the channel in waters 60-90 feet deep. Urchins are grazers, feeding on bits of kelp that float around the ocean bottom. Divers in hard hats gather the urchins from the sea bottom.
On most evenings starting around 5:00, you are able to watch the divers unload their catch onto trucks that are standing by to whisk them to processing plants in Ventura. After processing, the urchin roe is shipped overnight around the world and most often to Japan. The LA Times ran a great article about the local fishery.
My preferred way to enjoy them is at Kai Shushi. The chef makes an oyster, uni and quail egg shooter that is a great tasting tonic.
Chef Michael Hutchings
Michael's Catering
Santa Barbara
July 03, 2011
El Paseo Restaurant - Santa Barbara
The El Paseo restaurant has a long history in Santa Barbara. Once the epicenter of dining, it now is an easy-to-forget place to dine in the heart of downtown. The place oozes old Spanish charm and recent renovations have kept up the traditions of the past. Original painting from the 1920s add charm to the open-roof dining room.
Chef Alex Castillo is at the helm in the kitchen. Chef Alex is a veteran of the Wine Cask, THe Harbor Restaurant, Lucky's to name a few. We had a well executed dinner that started with fresh chips (thin and crisp) and a trio of classic salsas to anoint them with. First course was a table side caesar salad. Flavors could have had more punch and I missed the traditional coddled egg. A nice touch was cutting the lettuce table side as well.
My Mexican spiced salmon was perfect. The fin fish was nested on mashed potatoes, sauced with a red pepper coulis and garnishes with nicely cooked vegetables, all cooked to a proper state. Our other entree was equally delicious with a chicken tamale and a chile relleno flanked by rice and black beans. Put the El Paseo on your dining list.
Chef Michael Hutchings
Michael's Catering
Santa Barbara
Chicken Tamale and Chile Relleno
Mexican Spiced Salmon
June 27, 2011
Thai Cuisine Where You Least Expect It
Lunch with mom would be a treat even at McDonald's. Mom though, likes a dining adventure and will try anything. In particular she enjoys Asian cuisine. That's a good thing since Orange county has a large Asian population in the Garden Grove area. Little Saigon is a chop stick and a jump from her Fountain Valley condo.
Last Sunday we were visiting in her Orange county enclave. Orange county is a homogeneous collection of endlessly repeating strip malls, track housing and iconic examples of urban sprawl, now somewhat superannuated. We went on the hunt just south of Disneyland on Harbor Blvd. for a Thai Restaurant called Thai Tangerine. Directions were to go south and look across the street from the MacDonald's.
We found it. I would never even notice such a nondescript restaurant in the back of a u-shaped strip mall. We dove in to this rather plain restaurant and took a chance. We had a rather pleasant surprise and a pleasant dining experience. The first hint was an ice tea in a tall, attractive glass with a sculpted lemon wedge and ice crushed to a perfect size. The Thais are masters of vegetable carving and this was a good start.
We ordered a summer roll, NY Steak with some mysterious Asian sauce and a Chicken Pad Thai. The ice tea was a good harbinger. All dishes were nicely presented, had good clean flavors and was evidence of a caring talent in the kitchen. Plus the company was great as well.
Chef Michael Hutchings
Summer Rolls
NY Steak with Mustard Dressing
June 25, 2011
Classic Wedding Cakes
I assisted my pastry chef-wife with wedding cake deliveries today. The cakes were gorgeous. Christine makes precise, delicious cakes in a wide array of styles. Her piping work is unbelievable.
I have included a number of other cakes that Chef Christine has created. When you consider a celebration cake, this are jewels in the crown. Now really, do cupcakes and cake pops have the same impact! Celebrate in style with a Dahl cake.
Enjoy the video.
Chef Michael
June 21, 2011
Pizza Deliciosa
We dined at Olio e Lemon Pizzeria for father's day. We enjoyed a delicious dinner and the highlight was the Umbra pizza with robiola cheese, crimini mushroom and umbrian black-truffles. There was a very generous topping of truffles with hints of truffle oil. It is a bargain at $19!
Chef Michael Hutchings
Quail Salad
California Quail Perched in Shrubs
Hiking in Santa Barbara quickly brings you into contact with wild things. Right in our own backyard we have run into bobcats, rabbits, coyotes, racoons, skunks, all manner of birds and the occasional reptile. Yesterday, I heard then saw a California quail. "Cute" as they are, I think the look even better grilled on a salad. You usually find them in the freezer section and the are already "glove boned." They lend themselves well to stuffing with forcemeats, mushrooms and the like.
Here is a recipe for the summer BBQ season. If the thought of consuming the California State bird deters you, use squab or cornish game hens instead. Serve with a slightly chilled syrah.
Tastefully,
Chef Michael Hutchings
June 17, 2011
Caramelized Onion Tart
Onion Tarts (Foreground)
Over the years I have made this onion tart for passed canapes. It is always a hit with nibblers and imbibers at cocktail receptions. The tart is a take on the French Pissaladiere, an onion and anchovy pizza from Provençe.
My version is built on puff pastry that is topped with caramelized onion and gruyere cheese. Some of the variants add olives, sun-dried tomatoes, goat cheese, duck sausage and the like. The beauty of this recipe is that it can be made in advance and kept frozen until needed. From the freezer to the passing tray take 30 minutes.
Chef Michael Hutchings
Here are a few production photos from a recent catering event. We prepared 1000 portions for a charitable event. It started with 40 pounds of onions, 1 case of puff pastry, 15 pounds of gruyere cheese, 10 bunch fresh thyme and 1 quart of olive oil.
June 06, 2011
Chocolate! - The Bright Star of the Pastry Firmament
"The discovery of a new dish confers more happiness on humanity, than the discovery of a new star."
Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin
May 30, 2011
Montecito Dinner Party with Veal "Wellington"
Occasionally, a catering client requests a dish from the classical repertoire. I am always happy to oblige as it is a style of cooking that got me hooked on the craft. The client requested Beef Wellington but yielded to a suggestion of Veal Loin in Brioche with a Madeira Demi Glace sauce. We made a stuffing from chopped, cooked mushrooms called a duxelle. Other highlights were Potato Crepes with Sevruga Caviar and a dessert of White Chocolate Bombe.
Tastefully
Chef Michael Hutchings
Michael's Catering
Dinner Menu
Veal Loin Wrapped in Brioche Dough
Plate Presentation
Dessert with White Chocolate Bombe
May 28, 2011
Soufflé Framboise for All My Friends
Raspberry Soufflé Base
Soufflés are, well, a lot of hot air. There are lots of myths about what to do and what not to do. Reduced to the simplest format, you need a firm base like a sweet bechamel, some flavoring element like liquor or fruit and a firm meringue that goes into a well buttered mold, set on a shallow water bath and baked in a good oven. Just don't do your aerobic routine in the kitchen.
The souffle, named after the French for "breath," probably acquired its unjustified reputation for difficulty in the bad old days of the drafty oven in wood-burning stoves. Modern ovens are well regulated and eggs are better controlled for freshness.
Just in case you flob, here are a few rescue tips from ehow.com.
"1 Dust a sweet souffle with confectioner's sugar or cocoa powder. Serve with the sauce from the recipe or top it with a big scoop of ice cream.
2 To create a more deeply disguised dessert, top the souffle with whipped cream, fresh fruit or sliced almonds.
3 To rescue a savory souffle, sprinkle with grated cheese and broil until it's melted and golden. Call it a frittata or a crustless quiche.
4 Make a sandwich: Cut the savory souffle into thick slices. Spread focaccia or soft rolls with prepared pesto or tapenade. Layer the souffle between the bread with tomato slices, lettuce or roasted red peppers."
My Chef-friend James Sly made an easy solution out of the whole mystic. He created a fallen chocolate soufflé that was served rewarmed with a chocolate sauce.
Below is a photo story of preparing a Raspberry (Framboise) Soufflé for a crown of 120 at a recent charitable function. With a few chef-ly "trucs" I am able to make this hours in advance and bake it just before serving. I like the soufflé also baked in a sweet crêpe with a warm raspberry or custard sauce.
Tastefully,
Chef Michael Hutchings
Michael's Catering
Santa Barbara
Egg Whites Whipping
Whisking in Meringue to Loosen Base
Second Addition of Meringue
Final Folding in of Meringue
Buttered-Sugared Ramekins with Macaroon and Liquor
Ready to Fill
Filled and Ready to Bake
Chef Sly, left, Assisting with Plating
May 27, 2011
Too Many Chef's in the Kitchen?
Happy and Sated Guests
Are eighteen chefs to many in the kitchen? Not last night. Chef Vincent Vanhecke brought together eighteen of Santa Barbara’s finest to collaborate on a six course dinner. The event was a fundraiser for the YMCA’s teen outreach program called Noah’s Anchorage.
From their web page:
"NOAH'S ANCHORAGE
YOUTH CRISIS SHELTER
Noah’s Anchorage Youth Crisis Shelter is a licensed residential 8-bed group home for 10-17 year-old youth and provides outreach to youth and young adults. Our unique services have been active in the Santa Barbara community for over 35 years and are a trusted refuge and resource for youth and their families. Our services are available to the community 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. All services provided by Noah's Anchorage are offered at no cost to clients.
Hotline for 24 hour help: 1-866-HELP TEEN"
Contrary to kitchen myth, there was no temperament, flying knives or epithets slung during the course of this dinner. Chefs are are worldwide fraternity bound by the wok, sauteuse and BBQ. We were all delighted to help plate and serve the six course dinner with some 15 plus courses within courses. The photo below shows the intensity and cooperation during the main course plating. It was great fun and served a worthy cause.
To see the You Tube video of this and other clips, visit my You Tube page.
Tastefully,
Chef Michael Hutchings
Michael's Catering
Plating Main Course
First Course Plating
Another View of Main Course Plating
Video Link to You Tube
May 21, 2011
Fresh Spices
We all know that freshly ground spices are more flavorful than those ground far away and long ago. My favorite tool for grinding spices is a Cuisinart coffee grinder and the coffee/spice grinder.
I keep these dedicated to their task at hand and coffee and cumin do not mix. THe larger model works great for pepper. YOu are able to do a fine grind up to a coarse grind depending on the use.
Use the smaller model for things like nutmeg, cumin, coriander and the like. The hot tip on cleaning is to toss in some raw rice and grind it until it forms a powder. The rice absorbs the spice residue. Toss out the rice and use a dry pastry brush to sweep out any bits and pieces.
Tastefully,
Chef Michael Hutchings
Michael's Catering
Panna Cotta
Panna Cotta with Berries
Panna cotta is my "new favorite" dessert for spring and summer dining. Here is Wikipedia's blurb on the dessert.
"Panna cotta (from Italian cooked cream) is an Italian dessert made by simmering together cream, milk and sugar, mixing this with gelatin, and letting it cool until set. It is generally from the Northern Italian region of Piemonte, although it is eaten all over Italy, where it is served with wild berries, caramel, chocolate sauce or fruit coulis. It is not known exactly how or when this dessert came to be, but some theories suggest that cream, for which mountainous Northern Italy is famous, was historically eaten plain or sweetened with fruit or hazelnuts. Earlier recipes for the dish used boiled fish bones in place of gelatin; sugar, later a main ingredient, would not have been widely available as it was an expensive imported commodity. After years this treat evolved into what is now a gelatin dessert, flavored with vanilla and topped with fruit or spices, and served chilled."
We recently catered a ladies luncheon high atop of the San Marcos pass area. The theme was spring and light so I thought the panna cotta would be a great luncheon dessert. This is a light version used milk and yogurt but it would be delicious with light cream. The black specks are seeds from the vanilla bean used to flavor the dessert. I am working on variations with passion fruit, caramel, mango, coffee and wild strawberries.
Tastefully,
Chef Michael Hutchings
Michael's Catering
Santa Barbara, CA
May 20, 2011
CAMA Garden Tour
Garden Party at an Estate in Montecito, CA
Recently we catered a garden party for CAMA, Community Arts Music Association, in Santa Barbara. CAMA supports a series of classic music concerts in Santa Barbara. This particular event was the end point for a series of garden tours in the Montecito area. We prepared an American style High Tea, except there was no tea or tea sandwiches. It was a picture perfect day for the event.
Tastefully,
Chef Michael Hutchings
Michael's Catering
Petit Fours from top: Macaroons, Lime Sable, Chocolate Choux, Lemon-Raspberry Tart, Meringues
Selection of Cheeses and Fresh Fruits
Seasonal Grilled, Baked and Raw Vegetables
The Buffet
Menu for CAMA
May 02, 2011
Beehive Cake
Beehive Cake by Christine Dahl, Christine Dahl Pastries
Pastry chef Christine Dahl has been making this cake for years. Her approach is to bake a cake in a stainless steel cake mold and then invert it. THe cake is sliced, layered with a filling such as lemon curd and the frosted with butter cream. The hive look is achieved with a piping of butter cream using a plain tip. The bees are made from almond paste, marzipan, fitted with almond wings. THis is a fun cake for a spring party.
CHef Michael Hutchings
Michael's Catering
Santa Barbara
April 29, 2011
Macaroons de Paris - Success!
Raspberry Macaroons and Coconut Macaroons
The most allusive of the petit fours to make are the classic Parisian macaroons. What could be simpelier than a meringue that has almond flour and sugar folded into it with some sort of flavoring and maybe coloring? Well, the devil is in the details. I have had more failures over a couple of decades than I care to mention. They have been: too flat, grainy, too soft, dull, overcooked, with dimples, without the "foot," too soft and cracked. I have blamed the ingredients, the weather, overmixing, undermixing, overcooking, bad oven and humidity.
I recently bought every book out there on the now very fashionable Parisian macaroons as well as watching numerous videos on You Tube. One book touts the final step of "macaronnage" whereby the final mix is pressed into the side of the bowl some 15 times. Mind you, do not do it 20 times or you risk failure.
Finally, I have found one method that produces consistently good results. THe distinction is that the recipe calls for Swiss style meringue. This is a meringue made by cooking sugar to soft ball stage, 240 degrees F., the pouring it onto whipped egg whites. The other distinction is that powdered egg whites are added to the almond-powdered sugar mixture and a little water is added at the last minute to form a sort of paste. THe recipe follows. Try it, if you dare.
Chef Michael Hutchings
Santa Barbara, CA
April 08, 2011
Transition House Benefit - Mad Hatter Luncheon
Ladies in Hats - Christine Dahl and Patricia
I was happy to be on the receiving end of a catered luncheon today. The Transition House held its annual Mad Hatter Luncheon today at the Santa Barbara Four Seasons Biltmore. I donated a dinner for 10 in keeping with the Provençale theme as well as a luncheon at The Hangar and one of my sculpted trees. I am happy to report that the dinner brought in over $1500 and the other items another $1600!
Transition House assists families in need. The Mission: "Transition House is dedicated to the solution of family homelessness in the Santa Barbara community. Capable and motivated families with children are offered respectful, non-sectarian residential services and the life skills needed to alleviate their poverty, and to restore self-sufficiency and dignity."
Missy Sheldon and her crew did a great job organizing the event. There was musical entertainment, a magician and artist doing fun portraits. For more information on Transition House or to make a donation, click on the link above.
Tastefully
Chef Michael
Michael's Catering
Caricature of Chef Michael Hutchings by Entera the Artist
Caricature of Christine Dahl - Christine Dahl Pastries
April 07, 2011
Harbor Lights and tasting by the Sea
Chef Michael Hutchings and Iron Chef Cat Cora
I was recently a judge at a food event with Iron Chef Cat Cora. The event was a benefit for the Santa Barbara Maritime Museum. Cindy Makela of the Santa Barbara Olive fame chaired the event. The evening was a sort of grand cocktail party with restaurants, caterers, pastry chefs, wineries and spirit distillers.
Cat Cora and I had the "tough" task of tasting all the offerings and coming up with best in categories of savory, sweet, wine and cocktail. Wisely, we chose to judge the cocktails last! Top awards went to Rincon Catering for their Hamburger Shooters, Spoon for their delicious ice creams, Alma Rosa for their biodymics local wines and Double Cross for their vodka martini with a truffle-cheese olive from Santa Barbara Olive company.
Auction items included a party for 140 aboard the Condor Express donated by Fred and Hiroko Benk; two-hour sunset cruise on the Martime Museum's Ranger; and a cruise for 12 aboard the Casa Blanca, courtsey of Ken Clements and Elisabeth Kleen.
Both Cat Cora and myself scored big on silent auction items. I won a deluxe classic fishing pole that Hemingway would have envied and Cat Cora won a decorative surf board.
Ahoi Matey
Chef Michael Hutchings
Big Kahuna Iron Chef Cat Cora
Old Man and the Sea Chef Michael Hutchings
April 01, 2011
Great Easter Cake
Easter Cake
My very talented wife, pastry chef Christine Dahl, make an amazing Easter cake. It is like a Wilton cake on steroids. The cake base and filling varies with client request but I think the chiffon cake with a lemon curd filling befits the theme. The decoration is a series of butter cream swirls that surround the cake.
Best wishes to all.
Chef Michael
March 09, 2011
Plebiscite for British Dining
Toptable.com recently polled half a million diners who have booked tables through their online reservation sem to determine the top 100 British restaurants. This is a feat by itself, as 40 years ago, there would be only 10! It should be noted that there are restaurants that do not use the on-line reservation service (they do take a fee from the restaurants).
All derision aside, there are great restaurants in Great Britain and the change was led be Chefs Albert and Michele Roux of Le Gavroche and Waterside Inn fame. The Roux group is represented by five out of the one hundred. I am sure that many of those on the list have also been influenced or trained by one of the Rouxs.
Here’s the Top 100 as scored by Toptable customers:
1 Restaurant Martin Wishart, Edinburgh.
2 Piccolo Mondo, Glasgow.
3 Le Gavroche, London.
4 Chez Bruce, London.
5 Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s, London.
6 Conservatory Restaurant, Exeter.
7 India Quay, Glasgow.
8 Case Restaurant with Rooms, Sudbury
9 Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester, London.
10 Artisan, London.
11 Black Horse, Swadlincote.
12 Apsleys, a Heinz Beck Restaurant, London.
13 Roux at The Landau, London.
14 French Table, Surbiton.
15 Petrus, London.
16 Number One, Edinburgh.
17 Launceston Place, London.
18 Chapter One, Locksbottom.
19 Greenhouse, London.
20 Kendells Bistro, Leeds.
21 Vatika, Shedfield, Southampton.
22 Restaurant Tristan, Horsham.
23 Ondine, Edinburgh.
24 Zucca, London.
25 Clos Maggiore, London
26 Grill at the Dorchester, London.
27 Living Room, Glasgow.
28 Rhubarb, Edinburgh.
29 Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley, London.
30 Pied a Terre, London.
31 Gauthier Soho, London.
32 Gaucho, The O2, London.
33 Seven Park Place by William Drabble, London.
34 Spice Pavilion, Edinburgh.
35 Khyber, Croydon.
36 Borelli’s, Farnham.
37 Cah-Chi, Earlsfield.
38 Blenio Bistro, Brighton.
39 Mystica, Addlestone.
40 Tigerlily, Edinburgh.
41 Bartellas, Margaretting.
42 Quantus, London.
43 One-O-One, London.
44 Trinity, London.
45 Restaurant at Drakes, Brighton.
46 Olive Tree, Bath.
47 Gaucho, Manchester.
48 Galvin La Chapelle, London.
49 Roussillon, London.
50 Roux at Parliament Square, London.
51 Thackeray’s, Tunbridge Wells.
52 Albert’s Table, Croydon.
53 Sketch Lecture Room and Library, London.
54 Orrery, London.
55 Bath Priory, Bath.
56 Trattoria La Ruga, London.
57 Waggoners, Welwyn.
58 Monsoona, Aberdeen
59 Dower House, Bath.
60 L’Escargot Blanc, Edinburgh.
61 Kerachers, Perth.
62 Mulberry, Langshott.
63 Ashiana, Newark.
64 Il Portico, London.
65 Milroy, Les Ambassadeurs Club, London.
66 Vineyard, Wrotham Heath.
67 The Ritz, London.
68 Stockbridge, Edinburgh.
69 Canny Man, Lugton
70 Restaurant at the New Ellington, Leeds.
71 Opus One, Radisson Edwardian, Manchester.
72 River Bar and Restaurant, Lowry Hotel, Manchester.
73 Promenade, the Dorchester, London.
74 Brasserie Roux, Sofitel St. James, London.
75 Bartellas, Meopham.
76 Linen, Manchester.
77 The Square, London.
78 Gaucho, Leeds.
79 Prosecco, Bristol.
80 Hibiscus, London.
82 Gaucho, Tower Hill, London.
83 Gaucho, Charlotte Street, London.
84 Cafe No 8, York.
85 San Carlo, Manchester.
86 Warung Tujuh, Brighton.
87 JW Steakhouse, London.
88 Ronnie’s, Thornbury.
89 Upstairs at the Grill, Chester.
90 The Bingham, Richmond.
91 Asha’s Indian Bar and Restaurant, Birmingham.
92 Cinnamon Club, London.
93 Galvin at Windows, London.
94 Benares, London.
95 Soseki, London.
96 Villa Romana, Fareham.
97 Wiltons, London.
98 L’Ortolan, Reading.
99 Turners of Harborne, Birmingham.
100 Graze, Hove.
Luncheon for Dr. Condolezza Rice
It was our pleasure to cater a private luncheon honoring Dr. Condolezza Rice this past week. Westmont College engaged our catering service to serve 100 guests at a private Montecito Estate.
The planning challenge was creating a menu and service plan to elegantly and quickly serve the guests in the span of one and one-half hours. The time line was like a Mission Impossible script. Guests arrived at 11:45 and we were packed up and headed back to the kitchen at 2:00.
The key was a menu that would work. I planned a salad and dessert that could be pre-set prior to guests being seated. We also pre-placed butter and house made Parkerhouse Rolls and sweet rolls. Servers offered ice spring water or ice tea. The main dish was a sous vide cooked prime top sirloin of beef with local vegetables, mashed potatoes and a pinot noir demi-glace sauce.
The sous vide method involves searing the individual steak, chilling them and sealing in plastic pouches. We then cook them in a water bath for one hour at 138 degrees F. They come out a perfect medium rare, piece after piece.
The setting was an elegant estate in Montecito. We served on the terrace with views to the ocean. The day was a picture perfect spring-like day.
Chef Michael Hutchings
Michael's Catering
Luncheon Menu for Dr. Condoleezza Rice
Avocado Terrine Salad
local farm lettuces, vinaigrette
Prime Top Sirloin Steak
Red wine daube sauce with winter vegetables
Tarta de Santiago
almond cake with fresh berries
Our Parkerhouse and Sweet Rolls and Butter
Vegetarian Option
Parmentier Napoleon
layering of potatoes and ratatouille
Coffee & Decafe, Teas, Ice Tea
Sparkling Water, Still Water
February 25, 2011
Roux Brothers Silk Menus
Among my collection of menus are two that are printed onto silk. They are menus celebrating the tenth anniversary of The Waterside Inn, Bray on Thames, England and the fifteenth anniversary of Le Gavroche, London, England.
The menus were presented to me as a gift by famed chef Albert Roux when we opened our joint venture restaurant, Michael's Waterside, in 1984.
The Waterside Inn has been a Three Starred Michel Restaurant since 1985. From the Waterside Inn web page: "The Waterside Inn has a global clientele and international staff. No matter how far you travel to visit us you are always assured a warm welcome in relaxed riverside surroundings with Michelin-starred cuisine to equal anywhere in the world.
The Roux Family
The name is a culinary legend. Michel with his older brother Albert opened the original Le Gavroche Restaurant in Lower Sloane Street, London in 1967. The address was imprinted immediately onto the gourmets and gourmands across the country quickly followed by the opening of The Waterside Inn in September 1972.
Michel has personally been awarded an honorary OBE, and is the proud holder of France’s premier order, Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur. All of this has earned him his reputation as a “living legend” among chefs around the world.
Today the sons run the flagships. Albert’s son, Michel Roux Jnr at Le Gavroche and Michel’s son Alain is Chef Patron of The Waterside Inn.
History
Bray village has a long and well documented history with notable inhabitants such as the Vicar of Bray, King Charles II, Nell Gwynn and Thomas Hughes (author of Tom Brown’s School Days). The present Waterside Inn used to be known as The George and has variously been a pub and also a tea room.
Since opening its doors in September 1972 the Waterside Inn gained its first Michelin star in 1974 when the guide first came out. In 1977 the second star, and then in 1985 the ultimate 3 stars which have been retained to date."
Warm Lobster with a Leek Sabayon
Lattice of Salmon and Brill with Ginger
Champagne Sorbet
Breast of Duckling with Figs from Provence
Lemon Tart and Black Currant "Délice"
Coffee and Petit Fours
Le Gavroche is an iconic restaurant, now some 40 plus years old. It set the standard for superb dining in the U.K. from the day it opened in 1967. The original location at 61-63 Lower Sloan Street was a rather small restaurant, seating no more than 50 guests. The wine cellar was under the banquettes in the dining room. The kitchen was like working in a ships galley and was very cramped with sixteen in the brigade working in less than 500 square feet of space. In spite of that, Le Gavroche had accumulated two Michel Stars by the time I went to work there in 1981. Visit the web page for a fascinating tour of one of the great restaurants of the world.
Foie Gras Cooked Ballotine Style
Lobster Mousse with Champagne
Thinly Sliced Braised Beef and Vegetables
Shortbreads with Raspberries
Coffee and Petit Fours
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