Chef’s Corner-Bits and Bites, by Chef Michael Hutchings
Gone Fishing
My favorite way to fish is to call my suppliers and find out what the fishermen are bringing is that day and have it delivered the next morning. Unless you live on the coast, the task for the at-home cook is much more difficult. Purchasing fish is one of the more confusing things we do at the market. After all, there are hundreds of species and varieties of fish but far fewer types of beef, chicken and pork.
Fish needs to be fresh. After all, have you ever heard of 21 day dry aged fish? Add to this complexity the fact that just caught fish can bee “too fresh” to cooked due to the dramatic stiffening of fish which occurs several hours after it is caught. If cooked too soon, the fish will contract and pull itself apart and become mushy. It can take several hours to several days to relax before it is ready for cooking. Compound this with the fragility of fish and it is easy to see why buying fish seems too complicated.
Much of the fish that is available in retail market has been frozen. Frozen retail fillets have the potential of being frozen twice when bought frozen, once as a whole fish on the boat and then after it has been defrosted, cut into fillets and refrozen.
Frozen fish can be excellent provided it is flash frozen shortly after being caught, kept below zero and defrosted slowly in the refrigerator, set on ice so the ice crystals do not damage cells causing moisture, flavor and texture loss. Second best is to defrost in cold water with fish in a sealed bag if it has been filleted.
Your best bet is to find a finding a fishmonger that is serious about freshness and cultivate a relationship with that business. Choose fish markets that are spotlessly clean, no fish aroma, save sweetness like the ocean shore. Look for oriental markets, especially Japanese, as they are fanatics about fish quality.
Fish should be stored neatly, not heaped carelessly on ice. Whole fish should be covered with clean crushed ice.
fillet of fish should be set on trays with no direct contact with ice and should be in a refrigerated case. Whole fish is always better. Look for clear eyes not cloudy or faded, skin smooth and slick. The flesh should feel firm, with a resilience.
Fillets should not have a strong fishy smell but a sweet smell of the sea and fresh, brilliant colors. They should have a moist sheen with no hint of film or slim. Any coloration on white fillets should be cherry red and not brown. Irregular red coloring may indicate mishandling and bruising when caught. The flesh should be translucent, not opaque which indicates it may not be fresh or was frozen improperly. Tuna steaks are best if kept in large pieces, wrapped in plastic and should haze a translucent pink or red color with no hint of brown. Some fish get a rainbow effect and should be avoided. Avoid fillets with spaces in the flesh. They should be dense with no gaping anywhere, if you get pre-packed fish, look for all of the above as well as avoid those with an accumulation of water.
One final hint. Do not overcook fish. Internal temperature of 135 to 145 degrees F. gives a great results.
Tastefully yours,
Chef Michael Hutchings
Michael’s Catering
www.michaelscateringsb.com
