Coastal Cooking with Chef Michael Hutchings

Dine Around at Sly's Restaurant with the AIWF

  

The American Institute of Wine and Food will host a dinner at Sly's. Join us April 28 at Sly's in Carpinteria for a French dinner, yes, French. Chef James Sly's romance with cooking has always been fueled by his love of classic cuisine, especially French. Chef Sly trained at the Hotel de Paris in Monaco and the Paris Ritz. Come join us for a delightful dinner that draws from the rich French culinary repertoire.

Sly's restaurant in Carpinteria might seem like a retro American joint from San Francisco circa 1900 with the dark wood and tiled floor to its blue plate specials. It's really a French-American restaurant in disguise. Put into the blender an American steakhouse (Kansas City or NY, bone in), French brasserie (Onion Soup Gratinée), old-line continental restaurant (Oysters Rockefeller) and a nice Italian joint somewhere in NY (Linguini with Clams), and you have a sense of the culinary point of view. The menu reflects chef/owner James Sly's omnivorous career from a cook at a coffee shop in Fullerton, California to cooking at the Hotel de Paris in Monaco with stints at the Chez Carey (bygone classic in Orange, CA), Martha's Vineyard, Regine's disco and the Ritz in Paris for good measure. 

Chef Sly has a seriously conservative point of view in his execution of those classics. “Thou Shalt Not Mess with the Classic” could well be the mantra over the kitchen door. The true-to-form execution of the dishes redeems the "tired old favorites" as chef Sly is apt to chant. Shrimp "Scampi Style" and "Our Famous Mac and Cheese" are not ground-breaking dishes from the pages of Art Culinaire magazine, but they represent real food that people love to eat. It's a simple formula: great ingredients, seasoned and accurately prepared. Oh yes, there are "classics" at the bar as well with the vintage cocktails from 1830-1953. Join us at Sly's for a great dinner and camaraderie with your fellow gastronomes.

When: Wednesday, April 28

Time: 6:00 Reception, 6:30 Dinner

Where: Carpinteria, corner of Linden and Seventh

Cost: $65 Members, $85 Non-Member Guests

Bar: No Host

Parking: Valet Available

Includes: Three Glasses Selected Wines, Three-Course Dinner

 

Reservations: Please send payment to:

Terrie Bugay 
2504 Calle Montilla 
Santa Barbara, CA 93109

For information: Chairperson Jean Schultz, [email protected], (805) 967-5358

Pastry Queen

Who doesn't like a nice sweet after a meal? Pastry chef Christine Dahl made these little gems for a local socialite. They are "personal" single serving cakes. Each is a perfect mini complete with a satin ribbon. The pearl dragees, fondant topping and passion fruit mousse made for a beautiful, delicious cake.

Chef Michael

"Personal" Cakes

 

Risotto, That Italian Rice Dish

 

Champagne Risotto with Black Truffles

Risotto, that Italian rice dish, can be a culinary chameleon. What is essentially boiled rice becomes magic with a little technique and the right ingredients. The basic recipe calls for arborio or carnaraoli rice to be cooked first in butter then reduced with wine and finishes with some liquid, stirring all the while to "bruise" the starch out of the rice and create a creamy finish with a little crunch left in the rice.

With those basics under your belt, your imagination is your only limit. The classic Milanese style has saffron for flavor and color, chicken stock and a finish of grated parmigiano-reggiano or grana padano if your bank account is low.

How about red wine risotto with porcini, squid ink risotto, caviar risotto, smoked salmon risotto, asparagus risotto ad infinitum. I am working on a recipe for lemon risotto with local farmed abalone. The idea is to use the basic risotto and finish it with lemon juice and zest, a few toasted pine nuts and use it as a foil for the farmed abalone simple egg battered and sautéed.

Chef Michael

 

 

Santa Barbara Shellfish Co.

We were "evicted" for three days while our condo is being treated for termites. So, we booked a room by the beach and are pretending to be tourists in our own town. Dinner destination was the Santa Barbara Shellfish Co. at the end of Stearn's Wharf. Tom White, the owner, has been in that location since the 1980s. I used to meet the fishing boast as they came in a get just-caught live shrimp and lobster along with local sea bass and halibut.

While they no longer sell fish wholesale, it is a fun place to take in the Santa Barbara harbor scene and have some simple, delicious food. I always get the ridgeback shrimp when they are on the menu. Now, they are preparing the local abalone farmed at The Cultured Abalone in Goleta. I am delighted to see this product on more menus as it supports a clean, sustainable fish farming operation. I have used cultured abalone sine 1981 and have had great success with the product. John McMullen of AbLab first introduced them to me when I was the chef at the Olive Mill Bistro.

The abalone are from 2-3 inch abalone and they were prepared with a simple egg batter and lemon butter and served with a pilaf rice.

Chef Michael

 

Nesting Herron

Ducks in a Row

 

Santa Barbara Sunset March 26, 2010

 

Steamed Ridgeback Shrimp

 

Local Farmed Abalone

  

  

S.O.S. of the Culinary Kind

 

1945 Edition Official Manual

War Shipping Administration - Food Control Division

My dear friend Marty Ronson served in the Merchant Marine service just after World War Two. In 1995 he gave me the present of a cook book he used while a cook on board merchant vessels in the late 1940s. On a whim, I was skimming recipes in the cook book and found two typed menus dated 3/23/48 and 3/18/48. They were menus from a ship called Esso Charlotte.

 

 

 
 

The Esso Charlotte was a class of tanker ship built from the early 1940s through 1945. The Esso Charlotte was in the class T-2-S2 (All became Fleet Oilers and several were converted to Escort Carriers CVE):

• 553 feet long overall
• 75 foot beam
• 32 foot draft
• 11,335 Gross tons
• 24,830 Loaded displacement tons
• 4 Steam turbines geared to twin shafts
• 13,500 shaft horsepower
• Speed 18 knots
• Capacity: 146,000 barrels

The T1 type were named after major oil fields in the United States. The T2 types were named after monuments, national parks, forts, battles, historic settlements, trails, lakes, swamps. Later T3 type were built for private companies and named by the company. The Esso company had an A to Z list of ships names after cities in the U.S. Many tankers were built for or taken over by the U.S. Navy and named after Native American names of rivers and lakes. The Navy AO designation indicates Fleet Oilers.

Tankers were developed around the turn of the century to carry liquid cargo: gasoline, oil, or molasses. During World War II, American tankers made 6,500 voyages to carry 65 million tons of oil and gasoline from the U.S. and the Caribbean to the war zones and to our Allies. They supplied 80% of the fuel used by bombers, tanks, jeeps and ships during the War.

 

T-2 Type Tankers

 

Here is the history of the Esso Charlotte from 1944 until it was scrapped in 1976.

Malvern Hill Builder: Sun Built: 1/44 Hull#: 302 USMC Number: 377

Later Names: 1946 Esso Charlotte 1960 Helen H. 1973 Anneli 1976 Mandarin

History and notes:1960 Lengthened and widened to 13268 GRT, converted to bulk carrier. Broken up Gadani Beach, 22 November 1977.

 

 

My friend Marty, now deceased, remained a cook at heart and we became friends when he talked his way into the kitchen at the Club 33 in Disneyland. He was a member of the club and decided he wanted to spend some time in the kitchen at the club. He would come for the Sunday brunch and we worked together setting up the cold section. We remained friends thereafter and he was a mentor in many ways. His support during my externship in Europe enabled me to polish my skills at Le Gavroche in London. Later, he became an investor and board member for my restaurant, Michael's Waterside.

A typical recipe with meat first called for defrosting. I suppose they had a chef "thawyer" second class in the kitchen. Meat cuts trended toward the less expensive like bottom round, brisket, pork loins and of course hamburger. There are recipes using dehydrated beets, onions, potatoes and eggs. All recipes served 100.

One classic in the book is Creamed Dried Beef, more fondly know as S.O.S. (Sh_t on a Shingle). No doubt was is a filling, high calorie dish that sustained the crew.

I have penned my updated version using beef tenderloin and brioche. It's my homage to "Chef Marty" and the wonderful, supportive relationship we had over the years.

Chef Michael

  

S.O.S. - Creamed Dried Beef 1945

 

 S.O.S. - Creamed Beef Tenderloin 2010

 

Cake Stenciling - Latest in Decorating Methods

Chocolate Decor on White Fondant

Cake stenciling is one of the latest techniques in cake decorating. The method employs decorative stencils to apply patterns to cakes. Typically it is done on fondant icing using colored butter creams or melted chocolate.

Chef Christine Dahl, Christine Dahl Pastries, is a master of this art. The application is for both the tops and sides of cakes and can be as classic as a lace pattern or as simple as numbers and letters. The craft demands precision in the application as a mistake is obvious and means starting all over.

  

Stencil Samples

 
 
 

 

Alimentary My Dear Sly

 

That Sundae

Sly's restaurant in Carpinteria might seem like a retro American joint from San Francisco circa 1900 with the dark wood and tiled floor to it's blue plate specials. It's really a French-American restaurant in disguise. Put into the blender an American steakhouse (Kansas City NY, Bone In), French brasserie (Onion Soup Gratinée), old-line continental restaurant (Oysters Rockerfeller) and a nice Italian joint somewhere in N.Y. (Linguini with Clams) and you have a sense of the culinary point of view.The menu reflects chef/owner James Sly's omnivorous career from a cook at a coffee shop in Fullerton, California to cooking at the Hotel de Paris in Monaco with stints at the Chez Carey (bygone classic in Orange, CA), Martha's Vineyard, Regine's disco and the Ritz in Paris for good measure.

Chef Sly has a seriously conservative point of view in his execution of those classics. Though Shalt Not Mess with the Classic could well be the mantra over the kitchen door. The true-to-form execution of the dishes redeems the "tired old favorites" as chef Sly is apt to chant. Shrimp "Scampi Style" and "Our Famous Mac and Cheese" are not ground breaking dishes from the pages of Art Culinaire magazine represent real food that people love to eat. It's a simple formula, great ingredients, seasoned and accurately prepared.

Oh yes, there are "classics" at the bar as well with the vintage cocktails from 1830-1953. 

And...be sure and have the dessert "That Sundae." It is perfection in an anatomically correct sundae glass with vanilla ice cream, caramel sauce, chocolate sauce whipped cream(fresh of course) and salted-caramelized pecans. It is one of those last meal dishes.

Chef Michael

Vintage Cocktails

 

 

Sly's Dinner Menu

   

 

  
 
 

 

Luncheon at Girl's Inc.

We were delighted to be asked to prepare luncheon for the annual Women of Inspiration Luncheon at Girl's Inc. in Carpinteria, CA. Tracy Beard does a fantastic job organizing the event and attracting women who have exceeded in their fields of endeavor as guest speakers. The turnout was great with over 200 guests.

We prepared an updated version of the classic Cobb Salad. The original hales from the Brown Derby Restaurant. Co-owber Robert " Bob " Howard Cobb was the creator / inventor of the Cobb salad.

 

Menu Cover Brown Derby Restaurant

 

In my version, I made a deviled egg with shrimp, avocado pate with tomato and chives, chicken breast cooked sous vide then grilled, local bibb lettuce and watercress from Live Gourmet in Carpinteria, crisp bacon strips and a Dutch blue cheese vinaigrette. Dessert was a simple Coconut Cream Cake with Local Strawberries.

The Berryman Produce donated wheatgrass for the centerpieces designed by Nico Cervantes of Nico Designs.

Chef Michael

Watercolor by Anna Jule Lohse

 

Table Design by Nico Cervantes
 

 

 

 

Modern Cobb Salad

 

Coconut Cake
 
 

 

 

     

Asado on the Turf

We recently catered a brunch for family and friends at a private polo field. The menu was inspired by the gaucho tradition of an Asado, the famous BBQ from Argentina. In my days at the Santa Barbara polo and Racquet Club, we had a few asados. Typically, there was a splayed whole lamb on an iron cross that was roasted next to an open fire pit. We liberally bathed the lamb on chimichurri sauce and soused the gaucho with beer. For this asado, we used upscale meats such as NY Steaks and lamb racks. Daniel's omelets were a big hit and the setting was spectacular.

Chef Michael

 

Oak Fired BBQ

 

Daniel Petersen at the Omelet Station

 

Cold Buffet

Chef Attended Omelet Station

Scallions, ham, peppers, Avocados, Tomatoes

mushrooms, cheese, artichokes, Caramelized Onions

Brunch Potatoes

Natural Fresh Fruit Salad and Berries

Breakfast Breads

Croissants, Beignets, Banana Nut Bread

Tortillas for Omelets

Black Beans

Local Greens with Dressings

Local Smoked Salmon and Bagel Bar

smoked salmon, vine tomatoes, butter lettuce, red onions, cream cheese, capers

Scrambled Eggs

Grilled Vegetables

squashes, asparagus, portabello, Tinker-bell peppers

Asada Grill

Grilled NY Steaks

Lingua Sausages

Beef Ribs

Rack of Lamb

Chimichurri Sauce

Ice Cream Parlor

Vanilla and Chocolate

Chocolate Chip, Coconut Macaroons, Earthquake

Flans, Blond and Dark Brownies

Toppings: Strawberries, Chocolate and Caramel Sauce

Sprinkles, Bananas, Walnuts

Blood Orange Mimosa

Pinot Noir Sangria

 

    

Chef's Birthday Dinner

Chef Kurt Grasing is a dear friend and colleague that I have known since 1984. Kurt trained at the famed Le Gavroche in London, as I did. We first met when Kurt was sent by Albert Roux to help open my first restaurant, Michael's Waterside.

Since those days, Chef Kurt went on to open several of his own restaurants in the San Francisco and Monterey areas. His flagship resataurant is Grasing's in the charming seaside town of Carmel. Kurt is noted for his regional interpretation of costal cuisine that plays off the fresh ingredients indigenous to the area.

Recently, James and Ann Sly (Sly's in Carpenteria) and myself made a surprise run up to see Kurt and be part of a surprise birthday party. Naturally, we ate well!

 

Chef Kurt and his Wife Christine

 
 

 

Local Lobster Season Ends

The season has closed on local lobster fishing. I took this photo of a lobster fisherman loading his traps onto a truck. Reports were that it was a poor harvest this year. Wholesale prices hovered over $15.00 per pound for these meaty lobsters. The season will repopen in October.

I have posted one of my favorite recipes from me London days at Le Gavroche. I prepared this for the Queen Mother's 79 birthday. It was a take out that we placed in silver service and was picked up by the butler in the Royal Bentley. Use East Coast lobsters until our local "bugs" are back in the markets.

Chef Michael

Blog posted here.

 

Packing Up Lobster Traps

lobster |ˈläbstər|

• Noun, a large marine crustacean with a cylindrical body, stalked eyes, and the first of its five pairs of limbs modified as pincers. 

• Homarus and other genera, class Malacostraca: several species, in particular the American lobster ( H. americanus).

• the flesh of this animal as food.• a deep red color typical of a cooked lobster.• any of various similar crustaceans, esp. certain crayfish whose claws are eaten as food.

verb [ intrans. ]

catch lobsters.ORIGIN Old English lopustre, alteration of Latin locusta ‘crustacean, locust.’

 

The Queen Mum's Lobster
 

 

Recipe for Queen Mum's Lobster
 

DInner for 250

Every year, the Santa Barbara Museum of Natural History has a gala dinner to raise funds for children's programs at the Museum. The Fleishman hall is transformed from a rustic auditorium into a Disneyesque fantasy befitting the theme of the Gala, "Our Treasured Islands." This years theme played of the islands in the Santa Barbara Channel. The four venues pictured below were designed by Nico Cervantes of Nico Designs and captured the theme of the islands.

Chef Michael

 

 

 

 

 

     

Tomato Trifle with Aspic Jewels

 

Canapé Trays

 

Abalone "Escargot Style"

 

 

Chocolate Sail Boats

 

Partial Shopping List

Cultured Abalone 150

Butter 40 pounds

Vine Tomatoes 80 pounds

Watercress 25 cases

Arugula 36 pounds

Cream 6 gallons

Beef Tenderloin 150 pounds

Demi Glace 3 gallons

Salmon Fillet 65 pounds

Lemon Beurre Blanc 3 gallons

Seaweed 10 pounds

Vegetables 75 pounds

Potatoes 75 pounds

Chocolate 45 pounds

Raspberries 30 pounds

Raspberries 24 Baskets

 

 

 

 
 

Roux Brothers at Hotelympia

Bravo to my mentors, Albert and Michel Roux who have garnered yet another accolade for a lifetime of culinary excellence. I have been proud to have been associated with the Roux and treasure the experience I had as sous chef at Le Gavroche and our subsequent partnership in Santa Barbara at my namesake restaurant, Michael's Waterside.

Albert and Michel Roux have been presented with an award by the organisers of Hotelympia, to celebrate their culinary achievement and the show’s history over the past 75 years.

The brothers have become the first names to enter Hotelympia’s Hall of Fame, and were presented with their award at the show by fellow Roux Scholarship judge Brian Turner.

Turner, who stood in for Raymond Blanc to present the award because a broken leg meant the Le Manoir chef was unable to attend the show, said: “It’s absolutely marvellous, it couldn’t have gone to two nicer guys. They are the godfathers of the industry, they understand hospitality and they’ve made us think about gastronomy in a way we never would have thought about it in this country had it not been for people like them.”

 

Albert and Michel Roux