In the dark ages, before computers and the internet, collecting recipes for research and recording them was a tedious, handwritten task. I used a system call Recordplate, a sort of note card binder, and notebooks to capture recipes from archival books, magazines, kitchens were I worked or ideas I developed. As a result, I have some dozen notebooks and 24 volumes of handwritten recipes from places like Restaurant Girardet, Le Pres Catalan, Alain Chapel. Le Gavroche, Troisgros, La Terasse, L'Orangerie, Citrus, Citronelle, Club 33 , Chez Carey and others.
Not only are the recipes in my peculiar scrawl, they are in a chef's shorthand that assumes a familiarity with the classic French-European cooking style, mostly of the Escoffier vein. I have used these recipes as a source of ideas and probably need three lifetimes to cook them all. I suppose they are like a jazz chart that gives you the general ideas but relies on the talent of the chef. I intend to transcribe the estimated 6,000 recipe and make them available in some form. Now, if I could only get the computer to recognize my writing I might finish the task in the next decade.
Chef Michael Hutchings
The above notes from Restaurant Girardet (circa 1978) transcribe as follows:
Feuilleté de Ris de Veau -Veal Sweetbreads in Puff Pastry
Little chunk of ris (sweetbreads) sauteed quickly. Coulis of leeks with truffles. Layer in puff pastry. Sauce of veal stock, port, truffle juice (don't we all keep a bottle in the fridge?) and finished with butter.
Turbot Grillé
Saute thinly sliced zucchini, lay like scales on the fish. Sauce beurre blanc with fish fumet, diced tomatoes to garnish.
Rognon et Ris de Veau Sauté
Sliced veal kidneys and sweetbreads sauteed quickly. Toss with tarragon. Sauce veal stock, red wine, tarragon and butter. Garnish with "turned" carrots, turnips and broccoli. Arrange as in the diagram.
