Pages from history? OK, not ancient history but my early culinary stirrings. When I started work at Le Gavroche, London, England, in September of 1978, I made it a priority project to hand copy all of the recipe portfolios in the kitchen. I did this because I was unsure that I would stay on the job. Initially, I was disappointed with the kitchen itself. It was small, cramped, had old equipment. The fridge iced up every night, it was in a basement, some 16 cooks worked in a space only big enough for half of that number. Some of my first tasks were peeling grapes, cleaning very dirty mussels, plucking beans and other tedious tasks. Later, I was promoted to sous chef and ended up three years as part of the brigade, but that is another story.
Entrcôte Fines Herbs
Saute a seasoned NY steak in rendered kidney fat. Remove from pan. Drain off fat, add chopped shallots, red wine, veal stock, cream. Reduce, Add mixes herbs (Fines herbs) and finish the sauce with a little butter. Pour over meat. Serve.
Rognon de Veau aux Trois Môutarde
Trim fat and sinew from kidneys, Cut into 1-inch pieces following the natural shape. Saute, leaving pink, Season after cooking has begun. Remove from pan. Add fresh butter, shallots, white wine, veal stock, cream. Fish by adding back the kidneys and a little mixed mustards (Dijon, Tarragon, Meaux grain mustard).
Caille Poché
Bone the quail from the back, leaving it in one piece. Make a jus with the bones, port, brandy, veal stock. Stuff the birds with a mousse of becasse (woodcock) and chicken with diced foie gras and truffles. Tie up. Sear the quail in oil, season. Finish by poaching in the quail stock. Reduce cooking juice to make a sauce, Finish with butter. Garnish with Pommes Annette (Darohin(, artichoke bottoms with grapes and hollandaise. Duchesse potatoes.
Clarification for Chicken Consommée
Prepare rich chicken stock. Combine very finely minced celery, leek, carrot, tarragon, lean been and chicken and egg white. Mix with the chicken stock. Bring to a slow simmer and allow to barely boil. Cook until the broth is clear. Carefully ladle off the broth and strain through a rinsed cheesecloth. Any fat can be removed with a paper napkin touch on the surface. Chill.
Aspic
Prepare a rich broth using beef shin bones, knuckles, pigs' feet. Do as you would a white veal stock. Add celery, leeks, onions, garlic, bay leaves, and peppercorns. Clarify as you would a consummée.
Grouse
Feather and Gut the Grouse. Remove any visible buckshot. Tie, season and roast the bird with a few mirepoix vegetables, leaving on the medium-rare side. Serve with three sauces, soubise, polonaise and a port deglazed jus. Sides are roasted root vegetables and Duchesse potatoes.
