Words cannot express my sadness at the passing of your father. He was a tremendous influence in my career and life. What an impactful and powerful man. I see the word mentor much attributed to his legacy. How many Roux restaurant babies are there? The babies are restaurants that were joint ventures with chefs he trained. And how many culinarians around the world are practicing the culinary arts espoused by Chef Albert? What a legacy and impactful man. I am very lucky and thankful to have been associated with him.
Le Gavroche was great to work an environment with high standards.He was always at the pass, the last stop before food went to the dining room, for dinner, inspecting every plate, often screaming for “le lift,” (the food elevator) which occasionally gut stuck in which case, the dishes went up a la main (by hand). Great memories, like it was just last week.
Two months after I started at Le Gavroche, Chef Albert asked myself, wife and 1 year old daughter over to his home for dinner. Monique, his first wife, was also there. I thought it was a kind gesture to welcome me to the kitchen. After dinner, Chef tipped his hand and said he was pleased with my work and suggested we open a restaurant in America. The plan was for me to spend three years at Le Gavroche and then return to America to form the partnership. I was promoted to sous chef as well. It was an offer I could not refuse. I had hoped to open a restaurant on my own but this was a dream come true.
After my time training at Le Gavroche, Albert sent me to mainland Europe to study and observe at several three starred Michelin restaurants, Alain Chapel, Troisgros and Le Pré Catalan. While at the restaurant Le Pré Catelan in Paris, I went on a buying excursion to Burgundy with the wine steward. I asked Albert about the best approach to understanding wine. His advise, “Drink it, my boy, drink it.”
I recall the first time I reported to work at Le Gavroche, then on Lower Sloane street in London. The kitchen was in the basement, it was small compared to the kitchens I had worked in prior and very crowded, There were some 14 on the crew. They were so close that if you put your hands to your side you might end up in someone’s pocket.
My first job I was given was to “peel grapes” for a duck special. I thought the chef Jean-Louis was kidding. Dutifully I peeled away. Next I was asked to clean a pile of rather crusty mussels used in a dish called Moules Mouclade d’Aunis. It’s a lovely dish with a creamy curry sauce.
I had different expectations and had a doubt if I would stay the course. The next day, Chef Albert was in the kitchen. He called me over to assist in preparing a Terrine de Rouget, a sort of fish pate. We went through the preparation of the dish. It was a layering of a fish mousseline, red mullet fillet served with a sauce based on the liver from the fish. It was a revelation. On reflection, I was convinced I was in the right place.
On one occasion I was asked to propose and prepare a special for the evening. I chose to prepare a wild grouse dish called a Salmi de Grouse. It took the better part of four hours to prepare ten portions. We sold none that evening and I was disappointed. I mentioned this to chef Albert and his only comment was, “Are you happy with the dish?”
True to his word, we opened a joint venture together. It was a long convoluted journey that took some three years to find the location and do all the needed things to open up.
We looked at locations in Wayzata, MN as well as Carmel, CA, Napa CA and at the Pierre Hotel in NY. The latter was in 1981 and a recession happened at the time and the restaurant venture was cancelled.
Chef Albert made a number of visits to promote the business of Michael’s Waterside by having gala dinners, cooking demonstrations and the like. His master classes were a great hit. Albert secured the financing and sent over key staff members.
I asked chef Albert what should be a guiding principle of a great restaurant. He replied that at deluxe restaurants the cuisine exhibits the special talents of the chef. Not just simple food roasted, boiled and fried but special skills using ingredients not commonly found in the market or using ordinary ingredients in a manner that is a revelation.
To this day I prepare some of the classics from the original Le Gavroche. His Soufflé Suissesse (a creamy twice-baked gruyere cheese soufflé), The Caneton Juliette (duckling with an orange sauce) and Sablé aux Fraise (a layering of berries in a light shortbread dough).
Chef Albert Roux was a fabulous chef and an extraordinary visionary. He could have easily written a book on business besides the numerous cook books. He transformed dining in England and around the world through the thousands that trained with him over the decades.
Rest in peace Mon Chef
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